The Art of the Straight Razor

[WadePatton]

It was a slippery slope from DE to SR. DE (Double-Edged Safety Razor) is much faster to learn and a zillion times better than plastic/electric shaving.

The straight razor has a much longer learning curve. But, now that I've been at it over a year, I can finally say that I get a very clean and satisfying shave with (antique) razors I hone and strop in a reasonable amount of time. The DE's are only for legs and such now.

They say it's the best way to beat skin issues. I never really had those.

Whilst there are a great many good resources (discussion forums) out there WRT wet-shaving, I thought I'd answer any Q's you well-groomed gentlemen might have right here on LeSalon.

Razors, Hones and Strops and their use, Crossing over... that sort of thing. I don't know the lotions and potions part much.

[spopepro]

WP,
I've been shaving with one of these when I've had the time to strop in the morning:

image-2006800298.jpg

Strops are new to me. I have an not fancy 3" strop with a felt fabric part. I'm getting scratch lines from the tip of the blade. I can't feel the scratching, but I can see it. Is this a pressure/tension issue, or...? Also, how often do you typically hit the fabric on yours? It seems common wisdom is "when it starts to work less good" but that's hard for me to judge.

[WadePatton]

Don't know how you're getting scratches if the blade is held flat. Work on your technique really really dumb-feeling slow. I've had to adjust mine, was rolling a little to hard into the back stroke and slightly lifting the spine. I still working on re-learning my thumb placement to keep it flat.

The fabric/linen/canvas/webbing strop gets used mostly after honing. MOF I didn't use my canvas at all for a long time except for that. Now i hit it on and off, as the mood strikes me, but I'm using multiple razors.

I may be wrong, but if I "feel" the need to strop on something more than leather, i'm dropping back to the Chromium Oxide pasted strop, (.5 micron) If that doesn't get it, back to the Belgian rock. Or the barber hone--which i've not really tried yet as a restorative process.

One can go straight to leather from 8k or higher or most natural stones, but the canvas i thought to catch any swarf coming with the blade so that you don't contaminate your leather.

The tension should be snug and pressure very light. The last steps of finishing one out on the hones is "weight of the blade" only. Also, proper and regular use of a pasted strop can keep a blade going indefinitely.



Refurbing a 7/8 W&B "American Razor" right now, oh it's going to be lovely. Scales are wasted, spotty rust but looks like it was used very little.

My other two faves (yes the 7/8 is a twin to the WB, but it's from Toledo):

my faves small.jpg

I fugged up the Leader and cracked the scales. The Black Steel has me puzzled. Another shot of the Maher & Grosh (my gold standard, buttery edge)

blacks steel, leader, diamond edge.jpg

[miwuksurfer]

I've been using my Hart Steel razor exclusively for over a year now. I hit the leather for 50 passes prior and the canvas after shaving for 40 passes then oil it. I use my glass stone as needed (about once every three months).
image.jpg

I love it. When I shave I do one with the grain pass and one against, every other day. I'm always experimeting with soaps and haven't found a favorite soap or brush yet.

[WadePatton]

Of course I like the new good stuff, and the fancy customs, but alas all mine, (at this point in time) are vintage.

Which glass? 16k? I have finished on Coticule and have a Zulu Grey in the process of getting itself here from South Africa. It's a hard, slow finisher. Naturals are different, took me a while to learn the Coti--BUT it's different going from bevel-set to finish or simply refreshing one.

I'm using a tallow (deer) based soap that i made also with castor oil and stearic acid, potassium chloride _and_ sodium chloride. Toots didn't like it so i added bentonite clay and THAT made it slicker than the leafs directly under the owl roost for me. Funny thing is that i had left the clay out, as i had read of it's polishing/abrasive qualities. Bahooey! Shave soap needs Clay period.

I've been a Witch Hazel USP only guy for ever, but am now trying the classic, stinky AS's. Skin Bracer, Brut, Hai Karate, Barbasol, Clubman, Aqua Velva--that nostalgic silliness.

A really keen blade and light hand though, leaves no irritation at all. I get that sometimes.

[Too Tall]

W.P. I've tried straight razor shaving. Ultimately it is a sport for men who have their lives in order and don't ever rush out the door. At least, I've consoled myself into thinking this ;) I've had a number of expertly done straight razor shaves in my life and really enjoy the result and process. Unfortunately there have not been any barbers offering this near me until yesterday :) Yeah buddy. I was fetching dinner from our favorite local sub shop and passing by a dive barbershop that has been next door for at a very long time when I spied something new. They have two young Chinese women working straight razors and the boys are lined up for shaves. They are there everyday according to the owner and he was grinning. I'll report back, they both had a steady hand and all the right moves....meanwhile my pizza was getting cold ;) This place is less than 2 miles from my front door. Oh happy days.

Wade, if you are in a generous mood I'll take a puck of the new soap and give it a try. Hey, go back to witch hazel there is a reason dad used it. Save the Aqua Velva for the after party.