The Seven Shoe Wardrobe

[j44ke]

They get it. I use Red Wing boot oil and Huberd’s Shoe Grease. These are about 15 year old boots, though it took a couple years to break them in, so more like 12 years of real wear. Frye “Prison” boots. New version of that style from Frye is not the same boot. Some kind of weird leather and cheap soles. I switched to a pair of Red Wings that are in the first year of the break-in process.

[echappist]

Allen Edmonds Strandmok Cap-Toe Oxford with Dainite Rubber Sole for jeans/weekend wear (or maybe even business casual).

Cognac? Brown? Both? Neither?

Can't tell if the brogue, pebble leather, and rubber are too much on one shoe or if they all work together in harmony.

I have the one in brown. Ever since purchasing them in late 2017, I really haven't worn anything else that's dressy. My previous favs were chocolate-colored Madison Aves, and those haven't been worn in ages.

Definitely worn them on honeymoon trip to the Netherlands and Germany; may even have worn them at our civil ceremony.

[caleb]

During the lockdown Rancourt ran a crowdfunding sale on some popular models. Their ranger mocs reminded me of the shoes I had as a kid (likely from Bean's), so I ordered them. They showed up today, and I'm impressed. They feel and smell like quality.

[NYCfixie]

I recently purchased a pair during the second version of the Rancourt crowdfunding event. I followed others advice and went down 1/2 a size on the handswen unlined loafers because the leather is chromexcel and will stretch a great deal. I am glad I did because while they were tight as hell at the beginning, they are loosening up now. if I had chosen regular size, they would have been way too big. The thin purple cycling socks are a must when doing the initial break-in.

Attachment 118164

During the lockdown Rancourt ran a crowdfunding sale on some popular models. Their ranger mocs reminded me of the shoes I had as a kid (likely from Bean's), so I ordered them. They showed up today, and I'm impressed. They feel and smell like quality.

My high school wardrobe is returning from the dead!

I was considering a pair of these. Rancourt & Co. I like the red soles with that shade of leather. I'm missing a good pair of loafer/slip-on/venetians for summer.

Attachment 107982

[caleb]

I forgot the shoes I intended to wear today at home, and ended up pulling out some old Allen Edmonds. Thinking back, I've been wearing these for at least 15 years now. They do need a polish, but after all the years they're just a mold of my foot.

[donk]

Any suggestions here for dress shoes with a deeper heel cup / volume to fit orthotics. My Aldens and most of my good shoes just don't feel right with orthotics.

[NYCfixie]

Any suggestions here for dress shoes with a deeper heel cup / volume to fit orthotics. My Aldens and most of my good shoes just don't feel right with orthotics.

Alden (Modified Last) "Added Depth with Alden Insoles" from Moulded Shoe:
https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/shop

The "Added Depth" models start at 5581 (middle of the page) and continue through D8620.
The boots start at D7842 and continue through D1809H.

From the Moulded Shoe website:
THIS MODEL COMES WITH A REMOVABLE ALDEN CUSHION INSOLE (WHICH CAN BE REPLACED WITH YOUR OWN PRESCRIPTION ORTHOTIC.) SIZING INCLUDES THE REMOVABLE INSOLE. REMOVING THE INSOLE ADDS 2 WIDTHS TO THE SIZE. THEREFORE: B WIDTH BECOMES D, D BECOMES EE, E BECOMES EEE, AND EEE BECOMES EEEEE.

I live near the shop, own stock Alden shoes, and a few of these Modified/Added-Depth models as well. DM me and I can give you more information.

[NYCfixie]

A few years ago I started down the path of building a new shoe collection because my foot size and shape changed. It was before the pandemic, I wanted some basics, and I had to find things that actually fit. Unfortunately, I simply could not find a black oxford that fit me correctly so I went with a plain toe blucher as my black dress shoe. I know it is not as formal as an oxford but better something in black than nothing at all. Here is the current state of my non-cycling shoe collection with a mix of dress, casual, and in-between options.

Carmina Brown Vegano Calfskin 531 PTB - Detroit last
Alden Madison Brown D8409 Dover - Modified last (with added depth - see above)
Blundstone 550

Veja Green Mesh Canvas V12
Carmina Black Calfskin 531 PTB - Detroit last
Rancourt Brown CXL Penny Pinch loafer - 114 Last

Carmina Brown Repello Suede 531 PTB - Detroit last
Brooks Transmit 3 - wide
Adidas Blue Suede Campus 80 (sized up because they run narrow)



* No planned order of photos because I could not figure out how to do it in Google Photos collage utility

[Chik]

Just spotted this old thread. Dredge...

Oxfords from Oxford. Shoes by Ducker and Son of Oxford who sadly no longer exist and this is my last remaining pair.

I didn't realise Ducker are gone. When did that happen?

When do you wear Black or Brown shoes?

I have always been of the opinion that if one wears a blue, grey, or black suit (or trousers with a coat and tie, or a tux), it should be paired with black shoes. In almost any other shade (brown, olive, khaki, seersucker, etc) suit one should wear brown shoes in a shade that compliments the pants (or overall outfit).

Do you follow this same logic?

Do you follow the "Italian rule" which is that black shoes should only be worn by occasion (funeral, wedding, black-tie) otherwise only brown shoes (shade appropriate) should be worn with everything else no matter the color of suit/jacket and pants/etc?

I think the only place that has a strong view on that is England (the UK by extension, I suppose), where there is a clear distinction between city attire and country attire. You might have heard of the old adage "no brown in town". For example, since one tends to wear navy, and other darker blues, only in town, one wouldn't wear brown shoes with your navy lounge suit basically by default. In other words, men's attire in England, at least traditionally, is fairly well codified. In contrast, once you get to the continent, the sartorial rules become much less rigid like in Italy or France. Other countries with no real sartorial tradition or history to speak of where they simply adopted the English tailoring "outline", things are just all over the place.

I feel like Horween number 8 shell is the single most versatile shoe color on the planet. You can wear it with anything except a truly black suit.

Just to pick nits, that colours is indeed #8 , but the swatch shown is that of Chromexcel, which is their bovine range, not shell cordovan.

hunt derby for walking in the woods in style

Mine just turned 30 last year. Built like a tank. I recently checked on the retail price and was a bit surprised. They were 4000 FFR back then, so that's something like 600 EUR? To be fair, that's the only model still made entirely by hand, and there is no short cut to doing a Norwegian welt (the real one, as opposed to the fake "Norwegian" on the suede loafer you posted previously), so I think the current price is fair, also considering that everything (most things) now must be above board (white) with workers being paid officially.

[Chik]

Is it? From my (minimal) research it appears Lobb on St. James is "British" and owned by the original family but everything else is owned by Hermes so different styles, construction, and distribution.

What you said somewhere earlier is correct. It's all a bit confusing.

St James's is still owned by the Lobb family, and they do only bespoke.

The Paris branch was acquired by Hermès some time ago, and JL Paris remains an Hermès group company. They do bespoke.

They (Hermès / JLP) also own the ready to wear business based in Northampton, whose products are sold at the JL corner in the Hermès Faubourg flagship (where you would also place your bespoke order), as well as JL retail outlets around the world. St. James's receive loyalties (licence fees) from H for the JL RTW business.

A few years ago I started down the path of building a new shoe collection because my foot size and shape changed. It was before the pandemic, I wanted some basics, and I had to find things that actually fit. Unfortunately, I simply could not find a black oxford that fit me correctly so I went with a plain toe blucher as my black dress shoe. I know it is not as formal as an oxford but better something in black than nothing at all. Here is the current state of my non-cycling shoe collection with a mix of dress, casual, and in-between options.

Carmina Brown Vegano Calfskin 531 PTB - Detroit last
Alden Madison Brown D8409 Dover - Modified last (with added depth - see above)
Blundstone 550

Veja Green Mesh Canvas V12
Carmina Black Calfskin 531 PTB - Detroit last
Rancourt Brown CXL Penny Pinch loafer - 114 Last

Carmina Brown Repello Suede 531 PTB - Detroit last
Brooks Transmit 3 - wide
Adidas Blue Suede Campus 80 (sized up because they run narrow)



* No planned order of photos because I could not figure out how to do it in Google Photos collage utility

How are you finding the Carminas? Been curious about them for a while.

[NYCfixie]

How are you finding the Carminas? Been curious about them for a while.

Love them. Well made and very fairly priced (especially when compared to Alden).

There was some concern about quality during the pandemic and MTOs were taking forever but that all seems to have ben resolved. I live a short walk from both NYC stores which has allowed me to befriend both store mangers as well as "Carmina A.", the granddaughter of the founder, so I receive exceptional customer service too.

Here is a video of my first pair being resoled (because I wanted a JR Leather sole instead of the rubber sole). The cobbler talks about Carmina quality in the video.
And yes, I sent them all the way from NYC to Colorado because this cobbler does exceptional work.

[robin3mj]

Has anyone tried Veldskoen shoes? I just ordered a pair of their Chelsea boot/shoe.

I'm on my second pair of the original Blundstones- first pair lasted a decade and about 5 years into second ones with zero issues.
So for work travel I figured I'd try their dress boot, and they seem much cheaper made and the fit seems a lot sloppier than the same size in the original model. Anyway, I am sending them back.
Hopefully it's just this model and not the whole range getting more cheaply made since I got my last ones.

[NYCfixie]

Has anyone tried Veldskoen shoes? I just ordered a pair of their Chelsea boot/shoe.

I'm on my second pair of the original Blundstones- first pair lasted a decade and about 5 years into second ones with zero issues.
So for work travel I figured I'd try their dress boot, and they seem much cheaper made and the fit seems a lot sloppier than the same size in the original model. Anyway, I am sending them back.
Hopefully it's just this model and not the whole range getting more cheaply made since I got my last ones.

No, but...

Do you know you have one of the best (as well as YouTube and IG famous) cobblers in your town/city?
http://www.leatherrepair.com/
https://www.instagram.com/bedos_leatherworks/
https://www.youtube.com/@BedosLeatherworksLLC/videos

I just sent him my another pair of shoes to be resoled (remove rubber and replace with leather).
He is expensive but the work is exceptional.

[Chik]

Love them. Well made and very fairly priced (especially when compared to Alden).

There was some concern about quality during the pandemic and MTOs were taking forever but that all seems to have ben resolved. I live a short walk from both NYC stores which has allowed me to befriend both store mangers as well as "Carmina A.", the granddaughter of the founder, so I receive exceptional customer service too.

Here is a video of my first pair being resoled (because I wanted a JR Leather sole instead of the rubber sole). The cobbler talks about Carmina quality in the video.
And yes, I sent them all the way from NYC to Colorado because this cobbler does exceptional work.

Spain had a rough ride during the pandemic, not as bad as Italy, but bad enough.

The JR soles, are they the originals or ones produced by Kilger? And, how are you finding them?

[NYCfixie]

The JR soles, are they the originals or ones produced by Kilger? And, how are you finding them?

They are originals made by JR. They take a little longer to break-in than other leather soles but they last so much longer which is worth it.

I had the cobbler replace the original Carmina "Silver Sole" which is a Dainite-like rubber sole with JR leather. I find Dainite soles very uncomfortable on concrete city sidewalks. I know leather soles wear out faster but they are much more comfortable (to me) than "hard" rubber soles.

[Chik]

The are originals made by JR. They take a little longer to break-in than other leather soles but they last so much longer which is worth it.

I had the cobbler replace the original Carmina "Silver Sole" which is a Dainite-like rubber sole with JR leather. I find Dainite soles very uncomfortable on concrete city sidewalks. I know leather soles wear out faster but they are much more comfortable (to me) than "hard" rubber soles.

I had the same problem with the slightly mushy rubber soles on a pair of double monk ankle boots. They were terribly uncomfortable. It reminded me of the fact that being struck with a metal pipe might cause bruising but not necessarily cause bone fracture, but a rubber baton can break bones using comparable force, sometimes even without leaving any visible marks / bruising on the surface. Every step in those boots felt like I was getting beaten up. Years later, I sent them back to have them resoled with leather, and all is well now.

I've never had any issues with hard rubber soles like commandos.

I don't quite understand why I'm ok with some softer rubber soles like crêpe soles but not others. I've never tried Dainite soles, genuine or otherwise, but they've always appeared uncomfortable in my eyes.

[Paul Jacobs]

Just spotted this old thread. Dredge...

I didn't realise Ducker are gone. When did that happen?

2016, the same year I retired. As I now rarely dress formally, my remaining pair of black Oxfords should see me out.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ducker_%26_Son

[NYCfixie]

The most up to date version of my Carmina collection.

Only their Detroit Last works for me which means 531/PTB or 532/LWB but for some reason I have tried several 532/LWB and they rub the heck out of my ankle bone so I am literally suck with 1 model on 1 last that works. What should be my next color and/or material 531/PTB (burgundy calfskin, loden/hunter/green suede, tan calfskin, tan suede)?

Top (Left to Right): Black Calfskin, Brown Grain, Brown Vegano
Bottom (Left to Right): Future Purchase, Brown Repello Suede, New England Snuff suede (new color for Carmina and very much like Alden Snuff suede)

Carmina Shoe - collage 03.jpg

[Chik]

Just on the Dainite soles, I just realised that they are on a pair of country boots that the Missus has. She says they are comfortable on tarmac -- she wears them only in town since they are white.

[Chik]

The most up to date version of my Carmina collection.

Only their Detroit Last works for me which means 531/PTB or 532/LWB but for some reason I have tried several 532/LWB and they rub the heck out of my ankle bone so I am literally suck with 1 model on 1 last that works. What should be my next color and/or material 531/PTB (burgundy calfskin, loden/hunter/green suede, tan calfskin, tan suede)?

Top (Left to Right): Black Calfskin, Brown Grain, Brown Vegano
Bottom (Left to Right): Future Purchase, Brown Repello Suede, New England Snuff suede (new color for Carmina and very much like Alden Snuff suede)

Carmina Shoe - collage 03.jpg

Since you already have a range of "sensible" colours, it might be an opportunity to consider a different colour like, as you mentioned, green.