Suit buying advice from a butler.
Just posted this elsewhere. I know it'll come up eventually over here, so I figured I'd just go ahead and lay it out there.
When buying a suit jacket, the first consideration should be how the suit fits in the shoulders. There should only be light padding in the shoulders, and the suit shoulders should not extend past your actual shoulders. Most people get sold suits a little too big in the shoulders, and wind up looking either like they are wearing their father's suit, or like David Byrne in the "Once in a Lifetime" video.
Second consideration in a suit jacket is the length. Quick fitting trick: Drop your arms to your side, curl your hands into the GI Joe Kung Fu Grip position. Your fingertips should just brush the bottom of your suit jacket.
You have a choice of notch or peak-style lapels. If you only have one suit, make it notch lapels.
A center vent in the back of the jacket is very american. A double vented jacket is more euro.
Have a tailor take in the back of the jacket to hug the contours of your body. With the top button done, you should not be able to get a fist between your body and the jacket. Two or three fingers from your body is the correct amount. Some tailors will argue that this is too tight, as you cannot raise both hand above your head when the jacket is buttoned. When will you ever be raising both hands above your head with the jacket buttoned? A gentleman never high-fives.
Suit pants should not be pleated. Besides disturbing the clean lines of a suit, they add weight to the midsection and make it appear as if you've taken a dump in your pants. Disagree? Ask ANY woman. Some men will argue this to the death and defend pleats. These are the same men who are convinced that no one notices its a comb-over.
Pant leg break is dependent on your height. Shorter people should have no break in the pant leg; this makes them appear to be taller. Taller people can get away with a 1" break MAXIMUM, and only if they are concerned they appear to be too tall. No break in the pant leg is the best look for a modern cut suit. Generally, you should not have cuffs on the pant leg. If you super tall, a 1" cuff will bring you back down to earth.
On a two button suit, only button the top button. Undo it when you sit, re-button when you stand. This action should become muscle memory.
A three-button suit should have a slight roll to the lapel over the top button, almost giving it a two-button appearance. Just button the middle button. This is the only acceptable way to wear a three-button suit.
Shirt and ties are make or break. A modern cut button-up shirt is essential. Notice how everyone else's shirts seem to billow and flow around their midsections, regardless of their weight? A modern slim cut shirt is best for most people. Your best affordable options here are J Crew, H&M, and Brooks Brothers. The shape of your shirt's collar should compliment the shape of your face. I'm a fan of semi-spread collars for most people.
With your arms to your sides, your shirt cuffs should just clear the wrist bones. Have your tailor make the suit jacket cuffs cut slightly above that. 1/4" of shirt cuff is the perfect amount of exposure. If you wear a watch, the cuff length should show half of the watch face; no more, no less.
Remember, dark suit, light shirt, dark tie. Never stray. This is pretty much irresistible to women. Think Clooney.
"Button down" refers to the button on a shirt's collar. For a bit of style and a rakish look, leave one unbuttoned. If all other details of the suit are perfect, this gives the appearance that you are not trying too hard. Women look for flaws (they call them quirks) about a man that they find endearing. This is a good one. If someone mentions it, say thank you, but don't "fix" it.
The tie should be cut to compliment the lapels. Slimmer lapels call for slimmer-cut ties. J Crew sells ties the perfect width. If you find a tie you like that is wider, you can have a tailor make it slimmer, but not vice versa. The tie knot should compliment the collar or the shirt. Windsor knots suggest you are a bit of a perfectionist. If all the other details of your suit are right on, a four-in-hand knot is the way to go. Its asymmetrical shape says you look good without trying too hard. The tip of your tie should just reach yor belt buckle; well, where your belt buckle would be since you are not wearing a belt.
Shoes. Cap-toe, wingtip, monk strap. No square toes; you're an adult, not going to your prom. Shine your shoes once a week. This is not a task, it is one of the simple pleasures in life. Brush the dirt off of your shoes. With a lint-free rag, coat your shoe in polish. Set it aside and move on to the other shoe to do the same. Brush the polish in short, fast strokes. Finish by buffing with a rag. Edge dressing around the soles. Alternate between polish and cream for maximum shoe life.
Get shoe lasts. Put them in as soon as you take your shoes off. The leather will still be moist from wearing the shoe. It will conform to the last and the shoe will keep its shape. If the shoes are not in use daily, you can remove the lasts after 24 hours to use in other shoes. Cedar lasts are a good way to fight foot odor.
Generally, socks should be a shade lighter than the shoes. If you've done your due diligence, and stuck with the dark suit- light shirt- dark tie, you can get away with showing personality with your socks by showing a bit of color.
Hang your suit up as soon as you take it off. Decent wood hangars with a shoulder for the jacket. (The following is a butler trick) Rather than hanging the pants folded at the knee, use a hanger with clips. Clip both cuffs of the pant leg and let the pants hang upside down. The weight of the pant will take out any wrinkles, and pressing before each time you wear them will not be necessary.
A few years ago, men started to wear pocket squares again. This made them look distinguished. Now (like the windsor knot) it is a detail that too many people have adopted, making the wearer indistinguishable. Skip the pocket square and opt for a simple stainless steel or sterling silver tie bar.
Lather, rinse,repeat.
Got some cash
Bought some wheels
Took it out
'Cross the fields
Lost Control
Hit a wall
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Originally Posted by chasea
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