Source for Decals/Graphics

[smithmtbr]

Looking for a supplier for decals, am aware of sssink.com...are there
other sources anyone could recommend? Thanks in advance...

[Alliance Bicycles]

I use victory circle graphix, Custom Stickers, Decals and More at Victory Circle Graphix

[steve garro]

I use victory circle graphix, Custom Stickers, Decals and More at Victory Circle Graphix

Me too, for over 8yrs. - Garro.

[Dornbox]

My two Cents on decals:

Victory doesn't do the ultra thin no vinyl transfers like Gary does and those can easily be buried in clear which makes them AWESOME.

On the other hand, I too would love to find someone other than SSSink but only because it takes a dozen phone calls and 3+ months to get my decals from Gary (assuming this is because I'm not Trek or another big fish). Once, I even stopped calling to ask when an order would be done and the order was never was completed... unless it randomly shows up at my door someday.

In the future as I get my margins up, I'll probably end up taking the price hit for multi colors and have somebody like Victory make my masks.

Good luck and keep me posted if you find another vendor!
Chris

[smithmtbr]

...only because it takes a dozen phone calls and 3+ months to get my decals...

yes, I'm looking for better response...so far, both VCGraphix and VeloCals have been quick to respond and move forward...appreciate all the tips...

[Alliance Bicycles]

I couldn't get SSSInk to take my money no matter how many times I called. I started the process on 5/21/10 and I'm still waiting for so much as a proof. I had the pleasure of applying many SSSinc decals at Stong Frames and the product is unrivaled. Unfortunately not only are they expense, for me they are vaporware. Victory Circle turned around 23 complete sets (7 decals per bike) in a week and a half for under 200 bucks shipped.

My steel bikes have painted logos, so how they look under clear is a non-issue.

[edoz]

Don't forget to check locally. I found a great graphics guy who used to race bmx, so he understands bikes. It's particularly useful when you want to walk into his shop with something and say "I want it to match this".

[Dornbox]

I just heard from JR at velocal and he does do water transfers.... I've got to do a little more research though as I just don't how they'll hold up over the years. I think older bikes used them and they all appear to have cracked over the years. I could be wrong though. Anyone else familiar with them?

[Dave Anderson]

Like Steve, I have used Victory Circle for over 8 years as well. Some of my bikes are even in their gallery section....or were anyway. They can not be beat for customer service, quality, and price. They are thicker though than the SSSink ones and are harder to bury under clear. I do it all of the time, but it does take more time, sanding, and clear.

I also get graphics from JR at Velocals for restorations and they are quite nice. I did, not, however, know that he was doing water transfers. I will have to look into that because those would be nice to have. Chris....I do not think you have to worry about modern water transfers under a modern urethane clear cracking....those old ones often did because of UV damage, or being placed directly on the surface with no clear over them, or because of some of the old lacquer clears that were used....I have done a lot of restorations with NOS water transfers under a modern urethane clear and even the old ones seem to hold up just fine

Dave

[pruckelshaus]

I just heard from JR at velocal and he does do water transfers.... I've got to do a little more research though as I just don't how they'll hold up over the years. I think older bikes used them and they all appear to have cracked over the years. I could be wrong though. Anyone else familiar with them?

Call Brian at Fresh Frame - he'll be able to tell you what the best to go with will be.

[Eric Estlund]

I sent Gary an email, he followed up in about a day. I sent art files and a check and we worked through art and color proofs. My decals were in hand and on a bike in less then two weeks. SSSink has treated me very well.

[Craig Ryan]

I sent Gary an email, he followed up in about a day. I sent art files and a check and we worked through art and color proofs. My decals were in hand and on a bike in less then two weeks. SSSink has treated me very well.

Same with me. Also did a resto and had them in a couple of days. I'm sure there are many people who can do a nice job, but Gary has it dialed in.

[Dornbox]

Chris....I do not think you have to worry about modern water transfers under a modern urethane clear cracking....those old ones often did because of UV damage, or being placed directly on the surface with no clear over them, or because of some of the old lacquer clears that were used....I have done a lot of restorations with NOS water transfers under a modern urethane clear and even the old ones seem to hold up just fine

Dave, thanks for the response. Your reply certainly brings a much higher level of comfort to the thought of using the water transfers.-Chris

[Dornbox]

Call Brian at Fresh Frame - he'll be able to tell you what the best to go with will be.

Besides being "The Man" Bryan Myers is also my main man! I love his work.-Chris

[skrivan]

i found that Rusty Shaw at CR Graphics does some really nice stuff. I used to print my own waterslides but it was a massive pain in the ass and the results were not nearly as good as Rusty's. Check him out at:

CRGraphics@ME.com

i dont think they have a website but they are good value for sure. I put House-of-Color clear on top of the waterslides.

For sure the Gary Prange dry-aps are by far the thinnest and best quality....for small orders, Rusty's prices are way better.

[pruckelshaus]

Besides being "The Man" Bryan Myers is also my main man! I love his work.-Chris

I know...I saw your show bike in his shop when I droppped a couple of frames off for paint ;)

[datas_brother]

Does anyone have a source in Euro-land?

Also, those that have printed their own where do you get the carrier? All I've been able to find here is for applying to coffee cups. I've asked in stores selling model supplies but they look at me as if I came from Mars.

[skrivan]

the paper i got was made by 'dennison'. it was years ago though, like 25. it's a release paper only, meaning you still have to print the clear. i put the clear on top (the clear ties all of the graphics together into 1 'decal'). with the clear on top, after you apply the decal and than a spray-clearcoat, you can sand the decal smooth with 800 grit then apply another clear-coat. really seals it up nicely. i also had some paper that you can run in a computer printer, but the decals were not very opaque. maybe black on top of a light color would work, but anything that is a light colored graphic on top of a dark color frame didnt work on my printer. the model railroad guys use it. i havent done in awhile so dont recall the exact source. if i remember right, though, this paper was basically release paper with a full page of decal-like clear applied to it. your printer will print on top of that and you just cut it out to size. i'll try to find the source again.

[datas_brother]

Thanks for the info. It seems Dennison is now part of Avery and don't make this kind of product anymore.

Has anyone looked into silk screening? The process seems relatively simple so I might try that.

[Human Epic Jolt]

silk screening?

Interesting. I have been watching a local guy doing this on electrical equipment face plates. very nice finish.
My mind began ticking as to how to transfer this process to a round tube. The screen needs to be stretched and it is my guess that a special jig would need to be fabricated to achieve satisfactory results.

as you say.. interesting to hear from anyone using this method.