how did the installation go? any issues? As I cannot adjust client's bikes over the phone or the WWW I am very, very tenetive to spec one. Heard horror stories of every flavou, but no "this rocks!!!!" posts...... - Garro.
how did the installation go? any issues? As I cannot adjust client's bikes over the phone or the WWW I am very, very tenetive to spec one. Heard horror stories of every flavou, but no "this rocks!!!!" posts...... - Garro.
Steve Garro, Coconino Cycles.
Frames & Bicycles built to measure and Custom wheels
Hecho en Flagstaff, Arizona desde 2003
www.coconinocycles.com
www.coconinocycles.blogspot.com
They're a pain to setup because the belt line has to be dead nuts. Depending on the lateral flexibility of the frame, as you tension the belt, you can pull the frame out to the drive side a bit (I've heard up to 8mm by the guys at Cycle Monkey). That said, I've had one installed on my commuter bike for about a year and once it was setup properly I haven't had any major issues. The biggest annoyance is when it's below 40F the belt/ring interface squeaks some but a squirt from the H2O bottle puts an end to it.
As far as installation, I had to play around with chainring spacers to nail the belt line. that's about it.
So does it hold any advantages or is it change for changes sake?
Bill
Steve,
I have numerous belt bikes out there operating without daily fuss.
The secrete to problem free belt use is proper design from the outset.
Belt drive systems get a bum wrap from the multitude of folks who attempt to modify existing designs without proper regard for the inherent stresses of the system; doomed for failure from the start, they then spew in a multitude of online forums the varied shortcomings of the system...blech.
Choose the right materials...forget oval to round tapered chainstays, you need the torsional strength of a large round section stay for most riders. At a minimum for a steel build, a .75" sg tube needs to be utilized. Dependant on chainwheel size needed, custom bending or a scallopped relief for larger chainwheels provides the necessary clearance. Alternate designs include a shaped solid flat stock plate to extend beyond the potential interface, then mating to a round tube. In Ti, .875" is a solid starting stock size.
Although I like hooded dropouts for maximum stability, a flat plate dropout with slotted stay is sufficient.
The next consideration is how to pass the belt. I'm not a fan of systems that require you to "spread" the portions of the frame apart. After using SS couplers, machined lap joints, and gate passages, I can wholeheartily advise that the gate passage is the most preferable. It provides for maximum surface contact, least amount of stress to the frame, and ease of use for the consumer. Sean's adaptation of the coned connection is very nice for Ti applications.
The new centerline belts are nice as they provide for some mechanical tracking, but as Sean mentioned, proper belt line is a must. That being said, lay everything out on paper first so that you are well aware of the tolerances necessary before you begin cutting tubes. The better designed, the greater the probablilty of success.
Anyhoo, lots more, but you've got my digits if you have more questions.
rody
well there you go. Thanks, Rody! - Garro.
Steve Garro, Coconino Cycles.
Frames & Bicycles built to measure and Custom wheels
Hecho en Flagstaff, Arizona desde 2003
www.coconinocycles.com
www.coconinocycles.blogspot.com
Good stuff, but I am with Bill in wondering what the true advantages are....ie...are they Quieter? Is there less maintenance involved? Do the belts last longer than a chain? are they lighter? I have heard instances of belts snapping, but I assume that's not common?.......etc.....
Dave
IMO advantages are pretty minimal especially considering the extra work. No lube, no cleaning, less noise and it feels stiffer than a chain...nothing I would call a major advantage.
Sean, I rode one a while back and noticed that it felt like it engaged quicker as well. In other words, it felt like when going from coasting to power in the pedals the chain would have to tension before engagement. I ride only CK hubs on my bikes and all are chain driven, but the CK hub with the belt felt like it engaged even faster. Perhaps that wasn't true, but it sure felt like it. It also felt lighter to me, as in it spun up quicker. Both were very subtle but noticeable I thought. I'd still like a belt drive SS just so I don't have to lube/clean and it's on my list to build--actually, the first frame I built has the Gates belt dropout but I never tried it out because I got focused on doing the next frame and then the next one.... One of these days.
Rody, you mention not to go oval to round but that's what it looks like you have in your picture. Are you just taking 3/4 straight gage and rolling the ends before you bend them?
I think that feel is due to the very slight sag of the chain. The initial pedal movement is taking up just a wee bit of slack on a chain system and it's not there on the belt system. I would be VERY interested in setting up a belt system on a trials bike. Not that I think there would be a performance benefit, but any time you can make a trials bike feel more "direct" it's a good thing IMO.
Jay,
There is always an exception to the rule.
The build pictured was for a lady with little power output intending to ride road/dirt roads with a Rohloff drive hub. The build required larger chainwheel/cog sizes for the appropriate gearing, therefore had more surface contact area than the typical mountian bike build, reducing the tension anticipated. The size of the rider and intended use also created potential tension requirements that were much lower, allowing the use of the oval to round tapered stay without experiencing any lateral flexion.
rody
Does anybody have experience with the Paragon dropout belt-drive option? I like the simplicity and their stuff is bomber.
thanks,
rich adams
Here is what people from btwin decided to do with their latest "Tilt" folding bike. I find it quite clever. It is build to make sure you can remove the belt without unscrewing anything to the frame. The seat and chainstays act as a bashguard :
face-r.jpg
weelz-test-btwin-tilt-14.jpg
Last edited by sk_tle; 11-29-2012 at 08:51 AM. Reason: adding pictures
sk_tle - THAT is trick.
Josh Simonds
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