Bike 0001

[Eric Estlund]

Don't forget cables and housing go into those things. To my eye it looks like the housing is going to be headed straight for the seat post and have to make a wicked angle to get back around to the brake.

Take Doug's advise- slow down and work on fundamentals before jumping the gun.

Looks like you are making good progress. Time for another top tube! (and maybe DT- depending on the dent). You've worked hard so far, don't rush and bumble it just because you are excited.

[prolix21]

Don't worry Luke - you should see some of the stupid sh*t I did on my first frame at UBI. Even with Ron and Keith hovering over me I still managed to skip things, get stuff out of order, you name it.

[Luke]

Don't forget cables and housing go into those things. To my eye it looks like the housing is going to be headed straight for the seat post and have to make a wicked angle to get back around to the brake.

Take Doug's advise- slow down and work on fundamentals before jumping the gun.

Looks like you are making good progress. Time for another top tube! (and maybe DT- depending on the dent). You've worked hard so far, don't rush and bumble it just because you are excited.

I can rock the exit slightly to the left, and the housing would slide by the seat post. It's for sure NOT ideal. :(
I'm going to call this TT practice and order up more parts...

[Luke]

Don't worry Luke - you should see some of the stupid sh*t I did on my first frame at UBI. Even with Ron and Keith hovering over me I still managed to skip things, get stuff out of order, you name it.

Typically I'm very methodical, and accurate, but I don't get very much time off from the shop to work on this project, so when the time is afforded...I use it.
***Heat and fatigue don't go well with methodical and accurate.
Wrenching at the shop on bikes...sometimes 50+ hours a week, plus riding, and family (not in that order). Grrrrrr.

If i have two hours to grab a file and a drill, I do it.
I need to slow down.

[Luke]

One easy method to practice brazing steel to brass is to drill a 1/16" hole in a scrap tube. Place a short piece of a brass brazing rod in the hole. Silver braze it in with enough heat control so that the brass won't heat up so much as to start bending over and there is a nice little silver ring at the base. This is also a great way to seal vent holes in fork blades or seat stays. Don't forget you can always choose instead to put on those nice brake cable stops from Paragon. :)

That's a very good test. I never thought of trying that.
I may conceed to my ego and go with regular external cable stops on this first one.
Thanks...

[Willie1]

Luke, after seeing the mess I made with my out of practice brazing (its been 20 years since I did any real work with brazing) I decided against internal routing on my first few frames. You obviously have very good fabrication skills, far exceeding mine, but the real test is brazing the very thin metal in the tubes we are using. It is different than anything I did previously other than brazing autobody panels. The heat cycle is crazy fine, and unless you are practiced with thin tubes, the possibility of warping or uneven heat alignment/penetration issues is very real. I can be pretty self assured, even arrogant, and I had to do the reality check on this one. In a different post, I commented on learning to not build my dream frame as my first. It will come in time, with advancing skills.

[Luke]

Rear Triangle Sub-assembly time...
Rolling on here, despite some minor setbacks.
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[Luke]

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[Luke]

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[Luke]

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[Luke]

Relax...
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[e-RICHIE]

Dude I have only one question - does a macro setting fukincg rock or what atmo?

[Luke]

Dude I have only one question - does a macro setting fukincg rock or what atmo?

Yup. ;)

[Luke]

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This world can be a wonderful place, when you see things with the right kind of eyes.
;)

[Luke]

Questions of the morning:

Does everyone split the seat lug after brazing? Therefore doing the lug and the tube at the same time?

Can forged seat stay caps (fluted) be shaped/filed and bent to wrap around the seat lug...or to acheive this will I have to 'hand-build' the top of the seat stays by brazing in a concave tube slice?

That's all for today....

Thanks

[Jonathan]

Questions of the morning:

Does everyone split the seat lug after brazing? Therefore doing the lug and the tube at the same time?


That's all for today....

Thanks

I do it after brazing the front triangle but before any of the stays are added.

[Craig Ryan]

Questions of the morning:

Can forged seat stay caps (fluted) be shaped/filed and bent to wrap around the seat lug...or to acheive this will I have to 'hand-build' the top of the seat stays by brazing in a concave tube slice?

That's all for today....

Thanks

As Jonathan says, but it works either way. I slot mine first, less metal to cut later when it's in a more difficult position.

If you have any head tube left over use it for your SS caps. Leave a cm. at the end and you will have a bit of wrap material. I would keep that part simple, it's hard enough as it is. I left more than necessary on the one in the photo below, but it's how I braze caps on (brass).

[Luke]

Anyone ever use one of these Chadwick tube reamers???
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I'm assuming that after brazing, the ST needs to be done.
My i.d. checked out to be just over 30mm, and to fit the Fizik carbon 30.9 post...
something needs to happen.
What do you guys do/use??
Obviously it needs to be super smooth in there or a carbon post would be chewed up in no time.

[Jonathan]

That reamer will work fine but I think you'll need a 30.6 post if you're using the uber Sachs tubes. 30.9 would take way to much metal out.

[e-RICHIE]

Anyone ever use one of these Chadwick tube reamers???
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I have a bunch of these reams (I think they are called reams, and the cat turning them is actually a reamer atmo...) left over from the 1970s and haven't used them on new frames in decades. They were helpful back in the brass-brazing days but when I transitioned over to silver alloy I began using a light hone rather than trying to reshape or, worse, cut metal from the inside of the already thin-walled seat tube. I have a selection of these (see pic) that I make from offcuts of stainless, slotted, and rolled up with 80 grit aluminum oxide cloth. Chucked into a hand drill, aimed inside the upper 1" or so of interior, and we show the pipe who's boss after maybe a swift 8-10 seconds of rotation. I haven't reamed a seat tube in a very, very long time.