Paint Prep/Metal Prep or Let the Painters Deal With it?

[ToddFarr]

I'm finishing up a frame, and I am curious as to what I need to do sending it to paint.

I understand that most of the outside could be sanded or blasted, but what do you do on the inside, or are these things that the painters do? I have access to a blasting cabinet at work, but I can look inside the tubes and see a lot rust. Is this okay to leave that way?

What are your guys recommendations?

Also do you have any recommendations for painters in the Portland, OR area I could work with?

[Jonathan]

The painter will blast the outside with proper media, but they will be unhappy if its not as clean as possible. Painting a first frame sometimes requires putty work too, that's always a potential discussion depending how well the shorelines were filled. As far as the inside of the tubes, some of us soak the frames in a solution to minimize that flash oxidation you see. In time all steel frames oxidize and the best way to handle that is frame saver, boeshield or whatever you can source.

[shiggy]

The painter will blast the outside with proper media, but they will be unhappy if its not as clean as possible. Painting a first frame sometimes requires putty work too, that's always a potential discussion depending how well the shorelines were filled. As far as the inside of the tubes, some of us soak the frames in a solution to minimize that flash oxidation you see. In time all steel frames oxidize and the best way to handle that is frame saver, boeshield or whatever you can source.

And I would not do any inside treatment until the exterior finish is completed.

[ToddFarr]

The outside is pretty clean I've sanded everything down and filed all the shorelines. So it's okay to leave the inside the way it is? And then just use Framesaver after it's painted?

[prolix21]

I know Keith Anderson does't media blast, he uses metalprep to avoid any sand/whatever getting into the paint.

Internal protection generally after the paint process, so you don't end up with oily stuff all over the outside.

I've wondered if you could metalprep 79 the inside of a frame to clean it prior to framesaver. Or maybe it doesn't matter that much.

[Andrew R Stewart]

Generally i've let the painter do the final surface prep after the finishing filing/sanding was done by me. I sometimes have a period between finishing and paint so I feel the need to protect the metal during this time. In the past I had coated the frame with an oil, WD-40. But got taken to task by painters so now I Naval Jelly. I would talk with your painter before doing anything more then sanding. As others said, any insides the tubes treatment is after painting. I'm PMing you about painter recommendations. Andy.

[Jonathan]

I know Keith Anderson does't media blast, he uses metalprep to avoid any sand/whatever getting into the paint.

Internal protection generally after the paint process, so you don't end up with oily stuff all over the outside.

I've wondered if you could metalprep 79 the inside of a frame to clean it prior to framesaver. Or maybe it doesn't matter that much.

You can put metal prep in the soak tank. It's not a long term solution but it handles the light oxidation.

[Ncernitz]

You can take it to Action Metal Cleaning in Hubbard if you want the inside treated. I paint most of my customers frames and use a frame saver type product inside when finished.

[JimFrain]

Most painters appreciate you sanding/blasting the frame. a good painter will blast/clean the frame again once theyve recieved it. dont put anything else on the frame. you dont even want to use sharpe on your frame when building it if you can avoid it. Its actually hard to get off. It will look completely off the frame, then you pains some light color on there and you can see a mark from residue etc.

Frame save it when you get it back from the painter and the paint has had time to cure (its better to handle the frame once the paint/clear is really really cured. Then do the framesaver dance. Be careful every thing is plugged up well (vent holes, openings, etc) so that you dont get drips when its hung to dry. If you frame save it, at least it wont get worse on the inside right?

Good Luck!

[Toby Gallagher]

You dont even want to use sharpe on your frame when building it if you can avoid it. Its actually hard to get off. It will look completely off the frame, then you pains some light color on there and you can see a mark from residue etc.

Really? Oh crap, my current frame is covered in Sharpie, like a fine tattoo. Butt tapers, mitres, tube centre lines, middles, lug outlines, water bottle boss setting out, calculations, doodles, inspirational quotes, ATMO Etc. I think this one is going to be powder coated Black.

This is a great thread, just need to find a good paint/powder source near Newbury, UK. As the trips to the powdercoaters in Hackney, London are killing me.

[JimFrain]

Really? Oh crap, my current frame is covered in Sharpie, like a fine tattoo. Butt tapers, mitres, tube centre lines, middles, lug outlines, water bottle boss setting out, calculations, doodles, inspirational quotes, ATMO Etc. I think this one is going to be powder coated Black.

This is a great thread, just need to find a good paint/powder source near Newbury, UK. As the trips to the powdercoaters in Hackney, London are killing me.

Its not that bad... just sand and clean it real well....

[RCP FAB]

Acetone takes sharpie off instantly, if its burned in a red scotch-brite takes it off. I prep all my frames for my painter, 120 grit, then red scotch-bite, and a quick wipe with acetone. He wipes it down once more before paint.

[Kumo Cycles]

I think it is really important to strike up a good relationship with your painter. Don't assume anything, always ask and see what suits their methods.

I currently have three painters, each for different finishes and each one likes the frame to be prepared in a different way.

[Curt Goodrich]

If you are going to sandblast the frame before shipping it to the painter and you leave your seat stay vent holes open (yuck) put some tape over the holes prior to blasting. Few things make this painter angrier than crap from your blast cabinet falling out onto my final clear coat.

[Andrew R Stewart]

To add to Curt's good advice, beware of hidden vent holes. A while ago i thought I was being cool with my vent holes hidden inside stays (for the bridges) or the steerer (for the blades through the crown). I had a couple of painters complain, my take was they didn't heed my description/instructions that had been sent off with the frames for the painter to read. In time I understood that I needed to keep my painters happy for best results and learned to ask them what they want in a frame's venting and prep. Andy.