sachs newvex / nuovo richie lug drawings

[NBC]

hi all

does anyone have the newvex and nuovo richie lug dimension drawings ?

also the fork crown ones if anyone has them ?

would be handy to know the dimensions so i can draw a frame up

many thanks

NBC

[Jonathan]

hi all

does anyone have the newvex and nuovo richie lug dimension drawings ?

also the fork crown ones if anyone has them ?

would be handy to know the dimensions so i can draw a frame up

many thanks

NBC

28.6 ST and TT, 31.8 HT and DT. 73/73/60 iirc. Make the lugs fit your drawing not the other way around.

[NBC]

i was more referring to the distance from the bottom face of the headtube to the underside face of the downtube miter, and the top face of the head tube to the top of the top tube miter

in the same way as it is shown in the llewellyn drawings

NBC

[Jonathan]

i was more referring to the distance from the bottom face of the headtube to the underside face of the downtube miter, and the top face of the head tube to the top of the top tube miter

in the same way as it is shown in the llewellyn drawings

NBC

Iirc, it's 10mm and 18mm but e-Richie will probably chime in.

[e-RICHIE]

I am traveling but have the drawings at home. I have never used the math for framebuilding; it exists to help the tool designer make the lug mold. If you can't miter a down tube to a head tube without a mental image of what intersects where, and how much pipe hangs below the joint (without using a lug, a surrogate lug, or the math), then you should just learn to cope atmo.

[Eric Estlund]

I do a lot of things by feel, but I too like to know the size of the parts before I start drafting. I'd wager knowing how much lug is below the DT and above the TT helps form that mental image of what intersects where.

[e-RICHIE]

I do a lot of things by feel, but I too like to know the size of the parts before I start drafting. I'd wager knowing how much lug is below the DT and above the TT helps form that mental image of what intersects where.

I've never looked at the drawings. All I did was approve them since the 3D printed samples
looked so nice atmo. As a matter of fact, I wouldn't know what most of the numbers meant.

[NBC]

thanks guys

was just wanting to know the rough dimensions to draft with to make sure i'm going to be able to use the lugs,

i'm coping / mitering by hand atm, i don't own a mill or any of the mitering fixtures, nor am likely to any time soon ! just making sure i'm not too far away from the intended angles of a lug before i start cutting tubes !

is a newvex lower head lug 59 or 60 degree ? seen it posted as both before :S

NBC

[NBC]

eric,

when i'm drafting i'm working backwards from the contact points, chosing stem length and angle, how many HS spacers, HS, fork length, rake etc gives a definite head tube length,

then working with the distances below the DT and above the HT then gives me a pretty accurate idea of the angles, and if particular lugs might work or not,

the whole metalwork part of it is pretty much hands and eyes, a bucket of files, a saw and some sandpaper ! (no i'm not using paper templates)

NBC

[e-RICHIE]

thanks guys

was just wanting to know the rough dimensions to draft with to make sure i'm going to be able to use the lugs,

i'm coping / mitering by hand atm, i don't own a mill or any of the mitering fixtures, nor am likely to any time soon ! just making sure i'm not too far away from the intended angles of a lug before i start cutting tubes !

is a newvex lower head lug 59 or 60 degree ? seen it posted as both before :S

NBC

set the fixture to the design you want.
miter the down tube by hand to about 59 degrees.
lay it up against the head tube, already in place for a dry fit.
keep mitering until the fit is good.

i miter by hand too, and this is a two minute operation at most.

i can't imagine the lugs wouldn't work.
i have used the same lug to produce frames from 50cm to at least 65cm.

i don't mean any disrespect here, especially to math men.
but the fixture, and maybe a protractor, is all you need.
oh, and a tape measure.
PS i have never drawn a frame in my life (except mentally).

[NBC]

richard,

i know this is likely to sound stupid, but when your mitering a downtube to a headtube, do you already have the BB shell end cut a shade long and have the bb shell bolted to your BB tower ?
i've got an anvil 3.1 fixture, and it's a little annoying to take the bb shell off the post every time i want to take a little material off the head tube end of things

NBC

[e-RICHIE]

richard,

i know this is likely to sound stupid, but when your mitering a downtube to a headtube, do you already have the BB shell end cut a shade long and have the bb shell bolted to your BB tower ?
i've got an anvil 3.1 fixture, and it's a little annoying to take the bb shell off the post every time i want to take a little material off the head tube end of things

NBC

Make a surrogate shell that can be used for fits only.
I use a Bike Machinery Hydra and the shell is NEVER EVER locked down.
The two tubes that enter it help it float in the correct plane.
There's an internal that grazes the threads and holds it in another plane.
The shell slides on/off in a split second.
But - annoyances are part of the job ESPECIALLY on the left hand side of the timeline.
Here's a tip: get a shell, light a pyre, and sacrifice the part for a surrogation situation.

Oh and by the way, the uncut length of the lower down tube doesn't go in the shell.
It's held up against the assembly, eyeballed, marked, and then hack-sawed down to a correct length.

[Andrew R Stewart]

Richard- Sometimes i think you are channeling Freddy P. Like him, once I figure out what the ... is meant, all is good. Andy.

[e-RICHIE]

Richard- Sometimes i think you are channeling Freddy P. Like him, once I figure out what the ... is meant, all is good. Andy.

What part don't you get atmo?