Henry James jig modification thread

[steve garro]

Here are some modifications to the HJ access 65 - lemme know if you have any questions - Garro. IMG_4430.JPGIMG_4429.JPGIMG_4428.JPGIMG_4427.JPGIMG_4426.JPG

[Dallas Tex]

yeah, what does the slice of train track do?

[steve garro]

yeah, what does the slice of train track do?

Counters the weight of the extended rear axle mast so the frame sits level.
Sweet, huh?
- Garro.

[bellman]

Ok, i'll play! looks like we've come to some similar understandings with our jigs. My axle block was modded to bolt in an anvil dummy but i added the quick lok clamp soon after.
It seems like we found the same chopper headtube cones on ebay for use with 44mm stuff, works like a dream.

I built a run of cycletrucks a while back with 20" front wheels and a foot long headtube, the stock placement of the upper heim joint was right in the way so I built an extender brace to jump the gap. It worked so well I left it on there and feel better about building tall 29'rs now that the headtube isn't waving around at the top of the steerer rod.

[steve garro]

My axle block was modded to bolt in an anvil dummy but i added the quick lok clamp soon after.

I built a run of cycletrucks a while back with 20" front wheels and a foot long headtube, the stock placement of the upper heim joint was right in the way so I built an extender brace to jump the gap. It worked so well I left it on there and feel better about building tall 29'rs now that the headtube isn't waving around at the top of the steerer rod.

Those are both really sweet!
Didn't you change the config of the seat tube "holder?"
- Garro.

[DrBone]

Nice mods, guys. The only thing I've done so far is to have a couple cones machined so I can use the universal axle to build with through-axle dropouts. Works ok.

Judging by the age of most of these posts, I wonder if anyone is still using the Access 65. I use one, but I now see its limitations when it comes to current mountain bikes. I was preparing to set my jig for my latest design (frame no. 8) and realized the measurement for steering axis center reference is well beyond the max setting for this fixture as is. Head tube angle is 65 degrees and front center is about 800mm. Not the kind of frame the fixture was designed for, but what I want to build.

Would it be worth trying to modify this fixture to be able to build longer, slacker front ends? The only way I can see to do it would be to make a longer main arm, the fixed arm that supports the bottom of the head tube rod. Then I'd have to figure out how that affects the markings for head angle and steering axis center reference.

Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.

-Will Scharen

[steve garro]

Would it be worth trying to modify this fixture to be able to build longer, slacker front ends?
Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.

-Will Scharen

No.

It's why I sold mine.

Built anything shy of modern MTB's just fine, or anything rigid, but no room for two fixtures.


- Garro.


- Garro.

[sam]

Will check out meriwethercycles blog, he has easily overcome many of these obstacles, and gives detailed info, worth a look

[DrBone]

Thanks, Steve. That's the answer I expected but figured I would ask anyway.

- Will Scharen

[DrBone]

Sam, I see that he ultimately sold his HJ and bought an Anvil. But I'll dig a little deeper into his blogs and see what I find. Thanks for the tip.

- Will Scharen

[jon_norstog]

Steve, I'm still using my HJ universal jig. Have done a lot of mods to make it work for mountain bikes, BMX bikes, mid and American BB shells, machined headtubes, etc. etc. It's slow and fiddly but it's accurate and it's paid for.

Salisa want5s me to start making Ti frames. That's where it snaps and I'll have to get the Anvil ...

Thanks for the show-and-tell

jn