Originally Posted by
11.4
Leaving teeth aside, this seems to be a query about the merits and issues around down? I was a NOLS instructor for some years and used down extensively and consulted at length with a couple major down companies. The stuff has evolved rapidly, so here's a brief state of the art.
1. Down gets graded on loft -- how much volume an ounce of down will occupy. Insulation is more or less dependent on volume, so if your down occupies twice as much volume as a cheaper one, it'll provide twice the insulation. Twenty years ago 450 fill down was pretty damned good. Now it's gone to 900 and sometimes tops 1000. Also, be aware that down sold as, say, 900 fill, can only perform as well as 800 or can actually be off a very plush flock of geese and have a measured loft of 1100-1200.
2. Down these days is treated by some companies to make it more water resistant and to recover better from getting wet. Down becomes a mess with little or no insulation capability as soon as it gets wet, but some new treatments make it marginally more resistant. I'm not a big fan of them in high-loft down because they typically compromise the down a bit and if you really need water resistance, there are the new Pluma synthetics that are awfully close to down in performance.
3. If your down collects humidity from wearing it (sweat, body humidity, etc.), its insulation value deteriorates. You need a diffusing layer underneath so sweat from the skin doesn't just transfer directly to the down garment, and the outside of the garment needs to be extremely breathable so humidity can pass through. Down garments used to be covered in heavy fabrics such as 3 layer Goretex or Cordura. Those trapped moisture and also compromised the weight of down garments -- and the weight is the primary benefit of down, especially given the high quality of synthetics these days. So now you'll find very light fabrics such as Pertec. They are fragile, so generally use some kind of shell over them. For street use, you can usually get away with the light fabric -- it often comes with a pretty good water-repellent treatment so drizzle won't soak the down -- but it'll still tear easily from a dog or a car door.
4. For most purposes, if weight isn't an overpowering concern, I'd suggest you get one of the newest synthetics. They perform so close to down specs that you won't know the difference without specialized test equipment. The synthetics can get soaked and simply dry out, you can machine wash and dry them, and they have manufactured structures that allow them to be built up in interesting ways for more appealing cosmetics (i.e., you don't have to look like a puffball, but can have stylish stitching patterns and a thinner garment).
If you do want down, Patagonia is ok but nothing special. Feathered Friends definitely has the upper hand in ultra-fine down, but at a price. You also are paying for better construction methods (such as box baffling rather than stitched-through methods that create thin spots in the garment), better fabrics, higher quality stitching, more down detailing around the neck and related areas, and so on. If I really need a down garment, I always buy Feathered Friends. (Same applies to sleeping bags, for the same reasons.) Western Mountaineering makes some good ones that in some cases use treated down. (Patagonia doesn't treat any down, to my knowledge.) We have a multitude of fabrics and insulation products these days. You won't be unhappy with any of them. It's like choosing among top-end frames.
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