Groovy Cycleworks

[Rody]

A friend who owns a shop wanted me to work on his prototype frame, so here is an Easton AL Fat bike with ceramic coating and a bit of fun graphics...

A little graphite black with pink and green fun splatter.
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The "phat-so", so named for it's name sake...Phat Jay
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A helmet clad mountain biker, thumbs up!
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I shaped the waving flag in the shape of the state of Ohio
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[Rody]

anyone for dancing boogiemen?

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Groovy Cycleworks 330-988-0537: Boogie, damn you!

An after hours project for the family...this week has been devoted to preparing for the state championship race on Saturday at Chestnut Ridge in Columbus, should be one of our biggest races of the year. More bike fabrication stuff when promoter gear is shifted out of...

rody

[Rody]

I'm not a flame kinda guy, but a career fireman wanted a Luv handle with a custom paint job to pay tribute to his profession, so I could not refuse...

fire bar small.jpg maltese cross small.jpg

[Rody]

Each week we receive several emails asking if we will produce our steel and titanium bars in 31.8mm center sizing. Each week, our answer is the same; no.

Let me explain why.

For years, the standard for mountain bike handlebars has been a center cross section of 25.4mm or 1.00" diameter tubing. Stems, correspondingly, were sized the same and offered an excellent repository of diverse components to customize your bicycles fit and performance.

When the weight weenie gene began to creep it's way into mountain biking with the introduction of carbon fiber, the game changed. In an effort to keep up with the new kid on the block, Aluminum bar manufacturers began shaving critical material from their bars to save weight, unconsciously moving their durability from sustainable to race oriented. Unfortunately, this race to featherweight components had an irreversible impact on the rider's experience; components, particularly handlebars, were failing. Carbon fiber and the re-spec'd aluminum were not able to deal with the inherent forces of a bicycle hurdling down a single track trail and provide the substantial weight reduction in it's current form. Therefore, a new standard, 31.8mm was born...by increasing the center cross section of the tubing, manufacturers of carbon and aluminum bars were able to increase the contact surface area of the bar, increasing it's strength without impacting the overall weight savings.

Ironically, steel and titanium have the requisite strength and ductility to handle these forces in their current form. By designing with a larger center diameter, it increases the rigidity of the product to a point where it is difficult to provide the desired impact absorption and rider comfort over it's length.

The design of the Luv handle is a three piece mitered and welded product.

The grip section of every mountain bike handlebar requires a .875" outer diameter to appropriately fit provided controls. The center section of the handlebar must be swaged or squeezed into an oval shape to .825" to be properly fitted at the connecting joint. Using the 1.00" tubing, this creates a gentle change in shape which reduces stress on the welded parts and creates a larger welding surface over the grip section, fine tuning the rigidity of the bar.

If I was to move to a 31.8mm standard, it creates two issues;

The first is that the swaging process would have to be much more dramatic to reach the .825" cross section at the end of the center pieces. This process would create two distinct peaks in the oval section, which would eventually serve as focal points for the stress in the bar and provide a failure point, reducing long term durability. This is a compromise I am unwilling to make.

The second issue is that the final product, with the greater diameter center section, would not allow enough flexion over it's length to provide the comfort and control necessary. While it may be fine for those running squishy forks, customers who desire a fully rigid set up would be beat to a pulp.

So, here it is. If you would like a Luv handle you have some options.

- Source a 1.00" clamp section stem, there are lots of them out there cheapish now as they are no longer in vogue.

- Purchase a shim to fit the 1.00" center into a 31.8mm stem.

- Purchase a complete custom bicycle build and I'll make you a one piece bar/stem combo with a perfect fit and lighter weight than you could ever achieve with individual components.

I guess I'm stubborn...I refuse to follow current trends in design just to accommodate weaker materials that provide less durability for perceived weight savings.

[Rody]

Coupled OX Platinum steel 650b built for geared or Rohloff use, 0 degree rise Luv handle, Thomson post and stem, Fox fork, XT components, Stan's wheels with Kenda Slant 6 rubber. More pics on the blog...

Groovy Cycleworks 330-988-0537: Coupled 650b...

Coupler 650 small back.jpg Coupler 650 small dropout.jpg

Coupler 650 small downtube.jpg

[Too Tall]

Bitchin' bike Rody. Love seeing the latest.

[Rody]

last of the steel bars for this run...

Happy purged bar:
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Box full of ceramic goodness:
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The start of Jeroens psycho neon 29er:
Jeroen barstem.jpg

[sevencyclist]

Love the shiny 25.4 Thomson stems? Did you stockpile them before Thomson pulled the plug?

[Rody]

Did you stockpile them before Thomson pulled the plug?

As a matter of fact, I did. Down to my last few though, kinda a bummer as I always liked the simple design and clean look.

After I'm through my last few, gonna just have to be one piece combos on all the builds. That's ok, I like those even more... mo' custom, less weight, mo' satisfaction :)

r

[sevencyclist]

As a matter of fact, I did. Down to my last few though, kinda a bummer as I always liked the simple design and clean look.

After I'm through my last few, gonna just have to be one piece combos on all the builds. That's ok, I like those even more... mo' custom, less weight, mo' satisfaction :)

r

I think the only benefit of having two piece stem and bar is the rotation of the bar. I found it helpful to have the ability to rotate your Luv Handlebar and find an angle for a given height of spacer.

How do you determine the optimal angling up/down of bar for a given customer with the one piece combo? Or is there a fixed angle that is spec'ed out for your bar?

[Rody]

You are right, one of the advantages of the design is that it is variable for individual ergonomics. I will only build a one piece system after I've sent a bar to a customer and they've used it for a few months. I then have them send the bar and stem back in the desired position to use as a reference to build the one piece combo.

That way they get their desired fit with the clean lines and weight benefit.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy!

[sevencyclist]

You are right, one of the advantages of the design is that it is variable for individual ergonomics. I will only build a one piece system after I've sent a bar to a customer and they've used it for a few months. I then have them send the bar and stem back in the desired position to use as a reference to build the one piece combo.

That way they get their desired fit with the clean lines and weight benefit.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy!

Wow, that is great! A lot of work and shipping back and forth, but a true custom worn in fit.

[Rody]

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Groovy Cycleworks 330-988-0537: Vultures Knob Double Down...

[Rody]

[Rody]

Lots been going on as of late, the racing promotion side of the business is in full season swing and have been very busy with that. Especially the kick off of the inagural season of the interscholastic High School League, which happens in 3 short weeks. More on our web site at Ohio Mountain Bike Racing - you hid'n or rid'n: 331 Racing if y'all are interested.

Other wise, lots of pics posted on the blog if you care to check them out...

Fork work...

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Groovy Cycleworks 330-988-0537: It's FORK week...ti and steel flavor!

Bar/stem combos...

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Groovy Cycleworks 330-988-0537: Ti bar/stem combo fabrication pic-a-palooza

[Rody]

Groovy Cycleworks 330-988-0537: Kalten's Dirt Road/XC machine

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[fortyfour]

^LOVE^ that paint job Rody especially how you executed the pinstripes. I have a soft spot for worn-n-weathered looks. Very rat ride with emphasis on "what's under the hood"...

[Rody]

Thanks Kris, that's what he was hoping for.

Gotta admit, it takes a fair bit of time to emulate the effect that mother nature and use accomplish so easily.

Although masochistic destroying a perfect base coat, it is fun

[fortyfour]

Graphically I have some tricks up my sleeve for making things more "worn" looking. Don't know if they would translate to paint necessarily as you have to build up texture I assume by addition and subtractive techniques. Good work.

[Too Tall]

Digging it as always Rody.