the art of shaving (your face)

[Too Tall]

giordana93 >> what you are doing is how I started moving away from commercial disposable razors. I might have a Gillette Fat Boy with your name on it if that floats your boat.

[giordana93]

Hmm. We'll have to talk about that. I am curious whether you (and Lane) are complete converts to modern razors. I can see how modern tech could have improved upon stuff now 50-100 years old, but there is also that "they don't make 'em like they used to" aspect, regarding more expensive materials and hand-made skilled labor that are no longer in favor that gives a quality to the vintage stuff too. Then, of course, there is matching a blade to face and razor. I've tried Astra Platinums, Gillette Blues, Personna... and recently the Dorco's (surprisingly good). Variety is good too. Maybe one day I'll try a modern razor though I'm trying to limit acquiring more "stuff" (so true, Mr. Carlin)

[11.4]

Hmm. We'll have to talk about that. I am curious whether you (and Lane) are complete converts to modern razors. I can see how modern tech could have improved upon stuff now 50-100 years old, but there is also that "they don't make 'em like they used to" aspect, regarding more expensive materials and hand-made skilled labor that are no longer in favor that gives a quality to the vintage stuff too. Then, of course, there is matching a blade to face and razor. I've tried Astra Platinums, Gillette Blues, Personna... and recently the Dorco's (surprisingly good). Variety is good too. Maybe one day I'll try a modern razor though I'm trying to limit acquiring more "stuff" (so true, Mr. Carlin)

From time to time I come across some really amazing old blades from the 1980s and before. Better than Feathers, hands down. The only problem is they are remnants -- perhaps 20-30 blades if I'm lucky -- and people want a dollar a blade for them, sometimes two or three. There are some amazing vintage double-edge blades but there's also a lot of garbage, and you just have to be willing to pay or to keep your eyes open.

As for the razor itself, what you get with a Timeless, Paradigm, or AS-D2 is a superb grip on the blade -- precise and tight. It keeps the blade from fluttering while you shave, keeps the edge dead even so you don't have it open up on the ends or in the middle and cause cuts, and you get exactly the same cut every time. I've tried lots of vintage razors and would always pick a modern one. Even a Mercur 37, a high end popular modern mass-produced razor (about $60 or so), has only one pin on each side to position and hold the blade, and the threads on the handle are coarse and don't tighten anywhere near as well as one of the better newer razors. I used a Mercur 37 for a couple years and never knew from one shave to the next just what kind of shave I'd get.

If you want to step up, the absolute best shave I've found on the market is the Timeless Bronze. They make a very narrow gap closed comb model that might be your kind of shave. It has fine threads, the bronze makes for a very smooth tightening action, and you don't have to resort to all kinds of cutting and milling techniques as with titanium -- bronze mills like butter and just loading a blade is a joy. Plus, with stainless blades, you never get any kind of corrosion on the razor. It patinates beautifully but above all, bronze tightens superbly and it has a smooth feeling on the skin that no other metal can offer.

[giordana93]

you, sir, are an enabler of the worst kind!

fwiw I would never bother with vintage blades.

I wonder if one's proclivity towards a more aggressive razor argues in favor of the modern. I have a bit of a baby face and no need to impress the corporate world with a perfect shave so I've been tending towards a mild to mid-agressive approach. Love my old Gillette Tech for that and actually prefer the Personna blades after a couple of shaves when they might lose a bit of sharpness in favor of smoothness. maybe it is more forgiving of less than perfect blade retention. If I want a closer shave I give it an extra pass but usually finish with across the grain instead of full on against the grain on my trickier spots

[Too Tall]

What I think is that everyone's face is different. Maybe a Fatboy is your jam. My skin is pretty tender so a very sharp blade, precise holder seem better for me. My go to razors are a Merkur or a Feather using feather blades.

If you never tried a modern DE you should or not and I am glad to pass the Fatboy along to a worthy gent.

Hmm. We'll have to talk about that. I am curious whether you (and Lane) are complete converts to modern razors. I can see how modern tech could have improved upon stuff now 50-100 years old, but there is also that "they don't make 'em like they used to" aspect, regarding more expensive materials and hand-made skilled labor that are no longer in favor that gives a quality to the vintage stuff too. Then, of course, there is matching a blade to face and razor. I've tried Astra Platinums, Gillette Blues, Personna... and recently the Dorco's (surprisingly good). Variety is good too. Maybe one day I'll try a modern razor though I'm trying to limit acquiring more "stuff" (so true, Mr. Carlin)

[11.4]

In a spendthrift moment I got one of those 0-600x microscopes that plug into your iPhone and I've found more interesting uses for it. One was to look at razor blades. I looked at a number of razor blades from my stash both new from the package, then after one, two or three shaves and in some cases after 9 or 10. I found that Feathers are honed very smooth right from the start, so they don't feel excessively sharp or scraping on first use and tend to stay pretty much the same at least for a couple uses if not for three or four. They don't last for 9-10, though. There are some new boutique blades from small manufacturers but I'm hesitant to recommend them because while they can give 5-7 shaves easily before the edge appears worn or dulled under the microscope, they start with a lot of burrs that should have been knocked off before shipping and instead come off on your face. They just feel scratchy and irritating on the first shave, then get better. If you look at older blades like Blues, they are honed really well and keep their edges for 9-10 shaves. Unfortunately, they are no longer made, stashes are hard to find, and they are ridiculously expensive.

You might ask how one can evaluate sharpness realistically on a razor blade? With that fancy little $19 microscope, just position a light at an angle behind the blade edge and look at how well the edge refracts light. It's how fine edges get tested in optical devices and in the manufacture of double edge blades, so it works pretty well here too. It's independent of stubble quality or shaving preferences -- it just looks at the physical properties of the edge itself. If a blade tends to pit along the edge, you see it. Similarly, if the blade edge tends to be too thin and folds over, or whatever. Feathers are damned consistent; I have some remnants of packages ordered up to five years ago and every last blade I tested looked exactly the same. I can't even say that about Blues.

To your comment above, Giordana, modern razors have become more precise so they favor gentler and thinner cuts. Check out the Timeless, for example -- the bronze has an amazingly thin blade gap option. It cuts just like an AS-D2 but is actually much thinner so it actually positions and slices stubble better and gives a smoother cut, plus the actual action of the cut feels like you slathered your face in vaseline. Since you want a finer cut, I'd definitely think more about newer razors; there are definitely better options than there were twenty or thirty years ago.

And by the way, you gripe about your weaknesses being enabled in this thread? Look at the forum you're on. If TT were doing this in politics, Robert Mueller would be after him.

[Too Tall]

If only there was a decent place nearby to get a straight razor shave I'd quit this thread.

[11.4]

If only there was a decent place nearby to get a straight razor shave I'd quit this thread.

Haha! And if you could put out 480 watts consistently, you'd be wearing rainbow stripes. I fear the days of a decent (and inexpensive) straight razor shave are long gone. I have a barber that will do one for $8 and she's pretty good. But at $8 a day, and having to show up at her shop, it's too much of a stretch. I'll go every now and then just to feel good or to be shaven for some important event, but my double edge gives me the same result.

[Too Tall]

Haha! And if you could put out 480 watts consistently, you'd be wearing rainbow stripes. I fear the days of a decent (and inexpensive) straight razor shave are long gone. I have a barber that will do one for $8 and she's pretty good. But at $8 a day, and having to show up at her shop, it's too much of a stretch. I'll go every now and then just to feel good or to be shaven for some important event, but my double edge gives me the same result.

This is what I want. Walking distance would be acceptable. Straight razor shaves last me two days. I used to have a guy in DC.

[giordana93]

the enabler comment was of course meant as a compliment if it wasn't clear..... I bet that microscope would be fun to use on fountain pen nibs, making sure the tines are perfectly aligned and smooth..

so one of these days I will have to try out a modern razor, but trying to stay calm with acquisition-itis for the moment. (next discretionary spending is going to a new bike & wheels as mentioned in another thread). I now have 3 x100 packs of Personna blues, Astra platinums and the Dorco Prime Platinums and enough soaps for a couple of years. And to be precise, my vintage razors are not 20-30 years old, more like 50+. My least favorite is my dad's from '67, but I think part of that is that it is a little more aggressive than my Tech, so less forgiving of changing up soaps & blades & razors every week--in other words, I like it just fine but probably should use it consistently without changing too many variables for an extended period so I can hone in on the sweet spot for that particular razor. The Tech ('52) and Slim Adjustable ('64) are more forgiving in that regard. I'm in my second or third year of DE shaving so no longer a newbie but still on the learning curve as regards soaps, blades and prep. I will say that I think a good pre-shave routine goes a long way to a comfortable shave. Nothing fancy like products and so forth, just taking the time to let a hot wet towel soften the beard, and I suspect that one reason those barber shop shaves are so good is the hot towel prep, in addition to the years of experience of course.

TT, I'm curious if your old Gillette is an adjustable or not. I really like the adjustable, and the convenience of the twist-to-open head, but also appreciate the simplicity and lower volume/mass of the simple 3 piece design on display with the Tech and the modern razors you guys favor. Now back to Gent-Wevelgem!

[Too Tall]

Marv.,
Yes. 10 settings. Last time I used it iirc it was not pretty. I'll give it one more try than it goes back in it's pretty little case.
A fanboy's website for the Fatboy razors > Fatboy

Here is a stock photo of the same razor:

[giordana93]

Those are lovely. I would give it another shot. I do know that when I first used my dad's, a non adjustable but still a twist to open, I failed to properly cinch down the doors, not realizing that the final little tightening (not overtightened, of course) bends the blade a fraction and that fraction is critical. Then it is finding the right setting to match the blade and growth, and then whether to keep the same setting between passes, or gradually increasing or gradually decreasing the adjustment (there are advocates for both). I've gotten some dandy shaves out of my slim, and some less than stellar, so I blame it on me not controlling for one of the variables. Then again, if you are happy with the Merkur & Feather, stick with them. I like variety but admit that it makes for to many parameters, like changing saddle height, cleats and setback all the same day/week.

[Too Tall]

Soooo I gave it another shot using a fresh Feather blade and my usual brush/soap routine. I'm a double pass sort of guy. I have to say either I've learned a few things since this all started or the stars aligned. The darn thing gave me a wicked close shave. Go figure? My modern DE razors are definitely smoother feeling and they do not leave behind strays. For what it is/was it is not bad.

[VTMike]

Try the RazoRock Mamba.
It's as good as advertised for my face. Smooth, smooth, smooth and shaves amazingly close. For me, it's Feather blades all the way. I like them a lot more than the Personna

Way, way better than my Jagger and way better than my Merkur.

[Too Tall]

Try the RazoRock Mamba.
It's as good as advertised for my face. Smooth, smooth, smooth and shaves amazingly close. For me, it's Feather blades all the way. I like them a lot more than the Personna

Way, way better than my Jagger and way better than my Merkur.

That is quite a pitch they make! Honestly, I need to look into the blade gap on my (overpriced) Feather DE and see if your Mamba is similar. That might get me interested. I've never taken any interest in this other than faffing about trying various razors. I'm currently content but that does not mean I could not be more content ;)

*Edit (one google search later) Nevermind, I actually don't want to know. If this isn't a crushing argument for ignorance is bliss I do not know what is:
Aggression - Ranking by blade gap size | Badger & Blade

[alexstar]

TT, I'm curious if your old Gillette is an adjustable or not. I really like the adjustable, and the convenience of the twist-to-open head, but also appreciate the simplicity and lower volume/mass of the simple 3 piece design on display with the Tech and the modern razors you guys favor. Now back to Gent-Wevelgem!

That's the one I use. I bought it at the flea market when I had to start shaving (14...) and it's done the trick ever since. I was gifted a beautiful Merkur non-adjustable razor last year, and it's fine, but I keep going back to the adjustable Gillette with Astra blades. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?

[Too Tall]

that's the one i use. I bought it at the flea market when i had to start shaving (14...) and it's done the trick ever since. I was gifted a beautiful merkur non-adjustable razor last year, and it's fine, but i keep going back to the adjustable gillette with astra blades. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?

right!!!

[VTMike]

I'm currently content but that does not mean I could not be more content ;)

I wasn't discontent. This was my economical rebound to NOT getting a C50 as a new-to-me bike.
I made a dad-of-a-college-kid decision to avoid the N+1 and had all sorts of second thoughts. I had the blessing (encouragement) of my wife for the bike, so decided to search for some sort of decadent purchase....
I get the Italian Barber email blasts.

Boom.

And I've been very pleased with it...and I hope that I ride what I have with a smile.

[Too Tall]

I wasn't discontent. This was my economical rebound to NOT getting a C50 as a new-to-me bike.
I made a dad-of-a-college-kid decision to avoid the N+1 and had all sorts of second thoughts. I had the blessing (encouragement) of my wife for the bike, so decided to search for some sort of decadent purchase....
I get the Italian Barber email blasts.

Boom.

And I've been very pleased with it...and I hope that I ride what I have with a smile.

Amen to all you say.

[ides1056]

If I hadn't just bought a Merkur I would go for the Mamba. Hell of a pitch. My Aunt lived in northwest Africa for a number of years, and had a green Mamba drop out of a tree as she passed underneath. She heard it hit the ground behind her.

What a great razor the former is, though. Works beautifully.