21mm on a supposed tool watch? That dog don't hunt, and it's just as silly when Omega does it. I get it, most folks will stash these in a safe and sell 'em in a couple years time, and the bracelet is great, yadda yadda, Glidelock. But there's a reason they haven't needed to fuss with the design much over the last half century.
I agree 21mm is a non-starter for me. 20mm is the ideal, but if you have to go up, go to 22mm like the Pelagos.
And I also agree, it's hard to consider a watch that has been essentially un-buyable (at its what $8500 msrp) for years, a tool watch at this point. It's a fine watch, if a little boring, but if a tool watch's job is help you accomplish a task, aside from status signaling (not that there's necessarily anything wrong with that), I'm not sure what task you're accomplishing with a new Sub these days. I don't know exactly when it happened, but it's been a while for me since could be considerd a Rolex a tool watch. In recent times Tudor has taken over the tool space for Rolex, while at the same time releasing the more interesting pieces ATMO. However, even as an owner of two-line Pelagos that has been my daily wearer for six years now, I'm not sure that even $4000 watches are really tool watches these days. As sad as it makes me, I think the days of MilSubs are firmly in the rear view. The new Sub, like it has been for several generations is more desk diver than tool watch. Now it just has an awkward lug width that will limit your aftermarket strap choices. Which in the end won't really matter because it will probably be all but impossible to buy for years to come.
I'm wondering, is there a reason why Rolex never makes a blue Sub in anything but precious metals? I suppose I could understand the logic if black was the only color available, but with the series of green variants over the years, I have a hard time understanding why I would have to drop nearly $40k to get the same watch in blue.
Probably because they use blue regularly in the GMT. And Rolex is fond of consistency in how they use color across metals or lines. Like the ice blue dial only being available on platinum watches. The green only came about as a result of the 50th anniversary of the submariner and it was so popular they kept it in the lineup, but generally speaking, they stick to their formulas. Some love that, some hate it, but it's what they do.
There are also plenty of straps in 21mm. Here are a couple options:
https://bulangandsons.com/collection...?constraint=21
https://www.crownandbuckle.com/strap...mm-straps.html
https://erikasoriginals.com/
"I guess you're some weird relic of an obsolete age." - davids
Thanks for the explanation RE colors. I don't like it, but I can sorta follow the logic.
As for straps, I think you kinda proved my point. It's not that there is none, it's just that there are a lot fewer options. Crown & Buckle has a whole 18 straps in 21mm. I stopped counting after 100 in 20mm.
The whole watch/car analogy is pretty inapt, but I like cars too, so I'll carry it forward. I think the vast majority of Porsches really are built for the road and would be at least decent daily drivers. If we're talking about track cars, well, no I probably wouldn't buy a GT3 RS unless I planned to track it. It is technically street legal, but I don't think it would be a very satisfying car to drive on road. A Turbo S on the other hand is similarly quick, but designed more with road use and luxury in mind.
Back to the watch analogy, a steel Sub is probably most equivalent to something like a regular Carrera or Carrera S. It's expensive by most normal standards, but a far cry from something truly exotic. It's highly functional and performs well, but is still very usable for most on a day to day basis. The Sub is a fine watch, just not really a tool watch in this day and age.
The track car GT3 RS would probably compare better to something like the Sea-Dweller or the DSSD. These are watches that you could still technically wear every day and they'd probably be fine, but they are big, thick, heavy watches that are also a good bit more expensive. Personally, I think they'd be pretty awkward everyday watches in the same way that I wouldn't want to rattle my fillings out driving the track suspension of the GT3 RS on regular roads. The Sea-Dweller and the DSSD are probably closer to the tool watch tradition of the Sub, but they're more proof of concept than anything else at this point. There is something undeniably cool about the ability of a watch to go down to 3900m, but considering the record for saturation dive is around 700m, their status as tool watches is more theoretical than practical.
Circling back to my original comment, Rolexes are cool watches, nice watches, etc., but more luxury than tool watches these days. This is only a semi-interesting observation because there was time when they were the sort of thing would appear the wrists of activity duty service men. For me, the Rolex and Tudor MilSubs from the 1970s are about the coolest thing going. I can't afford one and even if I could, I doubt I would because I wouldn't be comfortable wearing a super rare, super expensive, essentially irreplaceable 50 year old dive watch. For me, the Pelagos is the closest modern equivalent and it's not a perfect match. YMMV.
Interesting take
Everything should spark joy or don't own/use it.
The pandemic has hyper-focused our thoughts (my wife and I) on retiring even earlier than we had planned, owning fewer but much higher quality items (again, this has always been our mantra but more so now than ever), and enjoying every single day of life (i.e. no more life-sucking careers/jobs either).
As we are about to embark and getting rid of our 2009 Outback Limited 4cyl., maybe a 4S or something similar will be in our future too
Porsches are great daily drivers. Point is that no one needs that much power and braking power for every day life. I had a 997 turbo and perhaps used 20% of its capability on the road. No one needs a sub to tell time either. The whole notion of "tool watch" is flawed. Oh...and I have a SDDS and I can barely swim...but it is a little feat of engineering that I enjoy on my wrist.
What about julian alaphilippe rocking a Richard mille...talk about panache
To be fair, I'm not sure anyone at Rolex would call them tool watches in the same vein as they did 50 years ago. That said, the build quality of the recent generation models is so good that they really could withstand significantly more abuse than people put them through. It's just that people don't because of the cost and value and difficulty in acquisition. A "race what you can replace" type mindset. Like my steel lugged Zanconato, which was designed to shred a crit course and I'm sure Mike would hate me saying this because bikes should be ridden, but I baby that thing because I friggin love it and I can't just walk down to the LBS and get another. There's no way I'd race it.
On the topic of straps, give those companies a few months. With a 21mm lugged Sub, they'll all start making that size.
Last edited by Matthew Strongin; 09-01-2020 at 06:57 PM.
"I guess you're some weird relic of an obsolete age." - davids
Near-total bike and watch stable shakeup, out with the old, in with the new, means my trusty Squale has found its way to the arm of another Salonista (may he wear it in good health), and this Sinn has found its way to mine. Sinn U1B, fully tegimented case. After looking for something bigger and bluer, I am in lurve.
One on the blue silicon strap, which feels good, but not my color.
I think this one will, at long last, keep me from falling prey to the flipper thing.
https://www.chrono24.com/rolex/rolex...id16377026.htm
$22k for a new Sub. In steel.
-Dustin
Well, to be fair, that's $22k for a new Sub, in steel, and without a valid manufacturer's warranty.
The photo is from inside an AD, so it's possible that the gray market seller only has a photo in possession and will then hunt one down if someone bites. Or they have the watch and yet another shady AD is feeding the gray market. Or, most likely, someone in an AD sent a photo for the listing.
"I guess you're some weird relic of an obsolete age." - davids
ouch.
so what is the list price for this newly updated ND sub? i know rolex does not make list prices easy to come by, but i'm sure someone here knows.
i remember buying mine for what i thought was a crazy number, but they have gotten crazier!
i still long for a coke bezel GMT. maybe someday.
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