automatic/mechanical watches on a budget.

[GonaSovereign]

Never heard of Yema (but I do personally stick to well known brands).

Yema is a legit watchmaker with a solid history. Made in France, in-house movements, etc. Fully taking advantage of its history to put out vintage-style pieces today.
To put a bow on the thread: Yema dropped out of sight for a few decades after being bought by....Seiko. They're French-owned once again. (Thank you wikipedia for that last bit.)

[theflashunc]

Yeah, I think 40mm is gonna be too small after almost four years liking 42mm ok. :( I want it though.

And no 007s because I am committed to a blue dial and bezel. It's my favorite color. Cain't hep it. Hmm, I think I'm talking myself out of Submariner copies and into a Samurai. Found a new one for circa 300 on fleabay from a dealer. Now, to run this by mi esposa.

I wouldn't take the sizes as absolutes. Every watch case is different. A 42mm slab sided Tudor doesn't wear the same as a 42mm SKX. I wouldn't rule out the Squale just because of the diameter without having worn it. Some wear big, some wear small, some just fit plain weird.

[deano]

I wouldn't take the sizes as absolutes. Every watch case is different. A 42mm slab sided Tudor doesn't wear the same as a 42mm SKX. I wouldn't rule out the Squale just because of the diameter without having worn it. Some wear big, some wear small, some just fit plain weird.

Yep, I think I'm back to wanting the Squale again.

There is a v. cool Squale 50 ATM that just came across my radar... manoman do I like these things. Might have to sell a bike to get one.

[NYCfixie]

Yep, I think I'm back to wanting the Squale again.

There is a v. cool Squale 50 ATM that just came across my radar... manoman do I like these things. Might have to sell a bike to get one.

The cost jump from 20ATM ~$500 to 50ATM ~$859 is significant so make sure the design is really important as the depth rating difference is meaningless in real life.

Squale, Steinhart, Sinn, and Damasko are all very good and very underrated options in the $500 to $1500 range.

It has been shared in the timepieces thread before (by me and others) that "Grand Seiko USA" is trying to move upscale in the market and truly compete with the Swiss (i.e. Omega and Rolex). They make fantastic watches but the brand recognition is not yet there and as such they do not hold their value in the secondary market so many state they are overpriced. The side effect is that "Seiko USA" has raised prices and held dealer discounting to 20% so people are now paying more than they did not the long ago for the same watch.

As such, Seiko is not what it used to be especially in terms of value IMHO.

[deano]

Yep, I would have to go secondhand. Probably in either case, actually. Elsewhere I have heard the jump from 100m to 200 makes a difference in how hardy they wind up being. It sounds like that's not the case past 200? Or in general not necessarily the case? Practically, yes, anyway, I will probably never do anything but skin diving or go to the swimming hole.

[NYCfixie]

...I have heard the jump from 100m to 200 makes a difference in how hardy they wind up being...

With 100m and under you often have a "Push/Pull" crown.
With 200m and over you often have a "Screw Down" crown.
That is the big difference in water "resistance".
I have heard that 100m is fine for showering, washing dishes, swimming in a pool, and the like but once you start "diving" you really want 200m.

After that it starts getting expensive with thicker crystals, thicker cases, better seals all around, and helium escape valves. Like most things, diminishing returns at exponentially more cost.

Again, think bike parts/groups:
80% should be good with Shimano 105 (i.e. 100m watch)
19% should be good with Shimano Ultegra (true enthusiasts)(i.e. 200m watch)
01% need Dura-Ace (becasue they actually race so weight and minuscule performance improvements matter) (i.e. 500m or more watch)

[jerk]

i used to have a watch that turned into a robot. i'm really glad that those haven't come back in to style.

[joosttx]

i used to have a watch that turned into a robot. i'm really glad that those haven't come back in to style.

I had a watch you could play space invaders on. Not trying to steal your thunder just stating a fact.

[bbattle]

It's impossible to watch the Tour de France and not see thousands of TISSOT signs so I gave them a look. I liked what I saw and I've ordered a Le Locle Powermatic 80
Screen Shot 2019-07-18 at 5.43.37 AM.jpg

I threw a Seiko series 5 gold watch with black dial onto the order while I was at it.

[bbattle]

My watches came in and they look great! The Tissot looks very sharp; I like the white dial with the dimples. The Seiko bracelet feels a bit cheap but the watch cost $85 so I'm not complaining.

102_5869.jpg

Grumpy Cat approves

[NYCfixie]

It is not worth modding Seiko watches (whether you do it yourself or not) IMHO.

Seiko SKX011
-Mod 1
239 Stock SKX011
85 Double Domed sapphire crystal and install
60 Ceramic lumed bezel insert and install
50 Seiko silicone rubber strap
- Mod 2
95 Seiko NH36 movement and install (hacks and hand winds)
25 Dagaz black hands and install
39 Seiko SARB059 crown/stem and install (needed for movement upgrade)
$593 Total

I probably could have saved some money on labor if all mods were done by the same person at the same time. I really like the final outcome but almost $600 is a great deal of money to spend on a Seiko when for a little less I could have had a Squale or Steinhart with a better movement, better parts, and better overall finishing. The only difference, the Seiko is customized for me.

Seiko SNZH57 (Fifty Five Fathoms)
150 Stock SNZH57
50 Double domed sapphire crystal
30 Dagaz FFF dial
50 Seiko NH35 movement (hacks and hand winds)
25 MKS sailcloth strap
90 Labor
$395 Total

I really like this one as well. Could have had a Hamilton Khaki Field with better movement, better parts, and better finishing for about the same money but it would not look like a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms "homage".

After image
Attachment 112649
Attachment 112650Attachment 112651

Before images:

[bbattle]

If you like it, then it's good. I've poured lots of money into fixing up old bikes with no hope of ever getting it back but it was what I felt needed to be done so no regrets.

I like your mods; they are definite improvements in my opinion.

[deano]

Ok, that Blancpain wannabe is worth it. I am not wild about orange dials so no comment on the worthwhileness of the other but the 55 is tres cool.

[NYCfixie]

Ok, that Blancpain wannabe is worth it. I am not wild about orange dials so no comment on the worthwhileness of the other but the 55 is tres cool.

I always wanted an orange dial diver.

And these are the other two FFF for my brothers.

Attachment 112654Attachment 112655

[NYCfixie]

Had the opportunity to try one of these on while on vacation in Amsterdam about 2 weeks ago. The watch wears much smaller than I would have thought and the bracelet felt really cheap. The metal bracelet should be on a $320 Seiko and not a $3200 Grand Seiko. I really wanted to like it but the bracelet was so bad I passed on buying even though they can be difficult to find.

1 - I am not sure a "quartz" watch belongs in this thread.
2 - If I am going to spend more than $50 on a quartz, it is going to be one of these:

Grand Seiko SBGN005
Amazing build quality
Top tier finishing and craftsmanship
±10 seconds per year accuracy
(but ignore the blatant ripoff of the Rolex Explorer II bezel style)

[NYCfixie]

What are your thoughts on Folex (aka Faux-lex) watches?

What about "homage" watches in general no matter what brand they are trying to copy/homage?

Does it matter if it is a cheap less than $100 Chinese model from AliExpress (as is the one shown below that my younger brother got for me as a funny gift)?

What about if it is a more expensive homage such as a Sqaule at $575, a Steinhart at $500, or even a Ginault at $1300?
(apparently the Ginalut is a frighteningly good Submariner copy even at the $1300 price)

[NYCfixie]

The SKX is dead, long live the SKX...

(I probably should have not just sold my heavily modded SKX011 but at least it went to a good home)

[NYCfixie]

I am having serious seller's remorse and possibly more so because SKX007/009/011 prices are already going up.

If you just sold a watch because you really were not wearing it, would you buy it again (and mod it again) if you thought it might not be around in the future?

It is not worth modding Seiko watches (whether you do it yourself or not) IMHO.

Seiko SKX011
-Mod 1
239 Stock SKX011
85 Double Domed sapphire crystal and install
60 Ceramic lumed bezel insert and install
50 Seiko silicone rubber strap
- Mod 2
95 Seiko NH36 movement and install (hacks and hand winds)
25 Dagaz black hands and install
39 Seiko SARB059 crown/stem and install (needed for movement upgrade)
$593 Total


Attachment 112651Attachment 112649

The SKX is dead, long live the SKX...

(I probably should have not just sold my heavily modded SKX011 but at least it went to a good home)

[Matthew Strongin]

I am having serious seller's remorse and possibly more so because SKX007/009/011 prices are already going up.

If you just sold a watch because you really were not wearing it, would you buy it again (and mod it again) if you thought it might not be around in the future?

Nope. I'd only buy a watch I planned on wearing.

[alexstar]

I am having serious seller's remorse and possibly more so because SKX007/009/011 prices are already going up.

If you just sold a watch because you really were not wearing it, would you buy it again (and mod it again) if you thought it might not be around in the future?

Nope. Same with bikes - remember that you sold it for a reason. Look forward, not backward.

Also, the SKX is a good value proposition, but if you're going to pour some money into it, just buy the watch you really want instead. At $200-250 it's a good watch, but for $350 or more I'd start looking at the Samurai, etc.