Hand Tools and Machinery for Country Living

[jclay]

I definitely need a vice. I had completely blanked on that. And a bench grinder for that matter. Would really like the grinder on a pedestal.

Definitely put the grinder on a pedestal and located cleverly for best swarf management/exhaust.

[ides1056]

I purchased a grinder on a stand for very little money at a local auction. Like new. Check out what is available at farm auctions. Sometimes the tools aren't totally played out.

Same for hand tools of every description.

[JoB]

If you get a saw, get a chain file! Two, actually. Which reminds me....I put my vise on a pedestal (for framebuilding & 360 degree access) but it comes in awfully handy for chain sharpening and other household tasks. Leave the chain on, clamp the bar in the vise, and go to it with the file. I kinda think that might be an excellent addition to the workshop that every house in the woods needs![/QUOTE]

The Stihl 3-in-one filing jig is super nice. $35 bucks and you're good to go filing the gullets and the rakers all at once. if you have that and a 2nd chain you are good to go.

There's a youtube channel on small engines (Steve's small engine saloon or some such) and it's absolutely worth watching that for the content, and it's entertaining as well.

[j44ke]

Jorn, Wheelbarrows don't acutally hold that much and are tippy. Consider a good old Vermont Garden Cart. Giant wheels and a manageable ctr. of balance.

That's all I got. Will check back when this thread hits 30 pages ;)

That's definitely true. Cart better than wheelbarrow. Vermont can't be wrong either.

I ran into this last night. My pal Jeff is a cabinetmaker over in Woodstock, and we just spent several weekends in a row loading 8' sections of three large black cherry trees into his Sprinter van the hard way. This would have made life a lot easier.

Log Lift n Shift, Log Arch | Timber Handling Aids | Woodsmith Experience | Woodsmith Experience. For specialist, handmade, woodworking tools.

[j44ke]

Definitely put the grinder on a pedestal and located cleverly for best swarf management/exhaust.

Yeah, like outside I think. Not portable enough though, so I'll need to figure out a shielded "dirty corner".

I purchased a grinder on a stand for very little money at a local auction. Like new. Check out what is available at farm auctions. Sometimes the tools aren't totally played out.

Same for hand tools of every description.

There is a local one in Ancram that is amazing. They had at least 30 tractors? Tables of tools etc. But also sad because they have this stuff as farmers close up shop.

The Stihl 3-in-one filing jig is super nice. $35 bucks and you're good to go filing the gullets and the rakers all at once. if you have that and a 2nd chain you are good to go.

There's a youtube channel on small engines (Steve's small engine saloon or some such) and it's absolutely worth watching that for the content, and it's entertaining as well.

On the list...

[Hoonjr]

Here's my advice and I'm no expert but moved from an urban to ruralish area about 8 years ago. If you're using a chainsaw, PPE is important. Chaps, eye/ear protection at the minimum. I even wear steel toed boots.

I do own a Stihl saw, it was a gift and I'm grateful for it. Definitely buy a brand that can be serviced easily locally. The Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener has been a revelation. So much simpler doing the gullet and rakers simultaneously. If you don't have a bench vise, get a filing vice. You can just hammer it into a piece of wood to hold the bar as you sharpen.

For wood chopping I too went with a Fiskars splitting axe. I wish this thing existed when I was growing up. I have no fucks left to give for wood I need to use a wedge on. Just set it aside and move on to the next. Always going to be another easier piece in the pile.

[j44ke]

Who knew Fiskars would get so many good reviews? I saw one in the local feed and seed and thought, hmm, kitchen scissors.

edit: What length Fiskars? I see all the way up to 36". I can't imagine. 28" seems more rational?

[NorTX-Dave]

I started out looking to buy the 28" Fiskars splitting axe, but after hefting and swinging what I could in the store I ended up with the 36". I liked the balance, swing feel and potential leverage with the longer tool. I'm not a big guy but it felt better suited to me. And once at home and splitting some pieces of oak up to about 16 - 18" in diameter, I'm glad I did.

[Too Tall]

To think I've been frittering away my time sharpening chains with a silly rat tail file. Yeah yeah that Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener looks great, y'all suk.

Dave, I feel the same re wedges. I've got two, they have rust.

[thollandpe]

I try to deal with the trees pre-chainsaw and splitter, when they’re still an inch around. The Weed Wrench is indispensable. Buy it if you ever see one at a yard sale, I don’t think they’re made anymore.

[ides1056]

Wedges make good door stops, and that's about it.

I use mauls of various length handles and weights, depending on the way I feel. All of them bought at tag sales.

[NorTX-Dave]

[QUOTE=thollandpe;978890]I try to deal with the trees pre-chainsaw and splitter, when they’re still an inch around. The Weed Wrench is indispensable. Buy it if you ever see one at a yard sale, I don’t think they’re made anymore.

A quick search confirms that the Weed Wrench is not being made anymore......but "The Uprooter" is, and looks to be the successor. I need this!

[Mabouya]

Back to saws - for anything less than ~6" I just use my cordless Milwaukee reciprocating saw. I don't remember exactly what type of batteries I have for it (they have so many different capacities) but one of them has just about enough juice to wear me out, and to be safe I have two batteries in case I have a lot to do.

The thing I like best (other than the simplicity of not dealing with gas, which obviously is #1 ) is that I don't have to mess with sharpening a chain. The blades last a long time, are super-cheap (at Harbor Freight), and replaceable in seconds.

The single biggest drawback is the limit on limb size, but it works for most of the stuff I cut, and for larger trees there's always the "real" chainsaw.

[Trevor]

Oh man, you have to get a grass whip for those quick trail cleaning jobs. Helps get the frustration out too.

[j44ke]

I see chainsaws in my dreams now.

During the Thanksgiving eat-a-thon in a lull between the turkey and the after dinner mints, I asked about chainsaws and a lively debate started about whether battery chainsaws were a sure sign of the demise of man or if fossil fuel chainsaws were the cause of the demise of man. Someone offered me their wood splitter whenever I needed it (just get a hitch on your Volvo and come pick it up - its got wheels) and someone else offered they'd come cut up the pine branch next week (need the exercise, both me and the saw.) Most had a Stihl chainsaw of some type or age. Actually the oldest was a Husqvarna. The host had the newest saw - a 90cc model with a 20" bar which just seems insane but he likes it. Was a highly emancipated crowd but not a single woman used a chainsaw which was disappointing. Several used the wood splitter on a regular basis though. Seems like everyone likes a good wood splitter.

[NorTX-Dave]

I split about 1/2 cord of old oak yesterday and today with the Fiskars. Good honest work......but if someone had offered to let me use a splitter, I unapologetically would have!

[vertical_doug]

I have a husqvarna chainsaw I bought in 2000 for the log house. I love it to death. It is no nonsense. My neighbor has an electric chainsaw. It's fine for little stuff, but in the spring when you are in the back of the properties clearing fallen trees, the husq rules.

If you are just splitting a lot wood like a job, then a splitter is the only way. If you are a weekend warrior just splitting a little at a time for meditation, then the axe is a fine way to go.

[sk_tle]

Not sure if it you give a fuck about that but I would steer away from anything John Deere for ethical reasons.

[Octave]

Not sure if it you give a fuck about that but I would steer away from anything John Deere for ethical reasons.

Can you expand on that for an ignoramus like myself?

[sk_tle]

John Deere do all they can to prevent farmers to repair their tractors themselves or by independent mechanics. It is purely software based locking. You can replace the transmission but unless you call John Deere and pay an expensive and purely arbitrary fee the tractor will refuse to start with the new part. For this very reasons some farmers end up running unofficial unlocked firmwares downloaded with possible safety issues if said firmware is buggy.

This is a shit show and it doesn't have to be. Farmers just want to be able to run their and repair their tractors as quickly as possible.

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