Water based paint systems

[Todd Mosley]

Thanks to both of you for the advice. I did use a heat gun to cure the AAC paint between coats but didn't figure out to use light coats when I was re-doing the fork, but after I had finished the frame and run out of that color. Even though the frame doesn't look professional when close up, from 6 feet it looks great and it is definitely rewarding.

[Rody]

it looks great and it is definitely rewarding

... Awesome! Having fun and enjoying the process while challenging yourself to stretch your perceived boundries is what it should be about.

Now time to post a pic of the finished product ;)

rody

[Todd Mosley]

I meant to say I did use light costs on the fork, but not the frame. Anyway, ask and ye shall receive...



image-1991817283.jpg



image-163592677.jpg



image-1046272812.jpg

The color is AAC Nightmare Blue over black sealer.

[Todd Mosley]

light costs

coats. I should stop posting from my phone.

[Dave Anderson]

Cool! Nightmare blue it my favorite AAC. It looks almost like a candy with a lot of depth and really pops in the sun.

Dave

[Todd Mosley]

I finally had a sunny day this week and it was stunning in the sunlight. Camera's don't do it justice and always make it appear more blue than sparkly midnight/purple/blue that it really is.

[Todd Mosley]

I've painted two frames. The first time I was using a Paasche type H using the largest tip. I didn't have problems with the primer and clear but the AAC Sparklescent colors were constantly clogging the tip, even when reduced. The second time I got a cheap Summit Racing mini spray gun with .8mm tip but but I sprayed it with way too wet and had a whole lot of overspray. I don't have a spray booth and I am just hanging plastic in a corner, but with the gun paint still went everywhere. With the airbrush it was very manageable. Painting is a lot harder than building the frames but I'm not expecting to pick up a spray gun and put out a pro job. What will be more forgiving - spray gun or airbrush? Is it possible to use an airbrush and AAC without constantly clogging the tips? Is it possible to use a mini spray gun but keep the overspray to a minimum? Would a .6mm tip spray gun be better? Would it be any different than .6mm tip airbrush? Are my results user error, low quality equipment, or both?

I finally got some time to experiment again. I also bought an Iwata Eclipse airbrush to use instead of the Paasche Type H. The Paasche was single action, external mix and the Iwata is double action, internal mix. After getting the hang of it, the Iwata works a lot better and does not clog up like the Paasche. I also experimented with the paint gun again and turned the paint volume waaaay down. Again, I got much better results.

[suzyj]

I've also got an eclipse. Very nice airbrush for really everything but clearing. I bought an Iwata rg3 which is the ducks guts for clearing. As an added bonus it's top fed, so you don't waste paint.

I'm still not sure about water based paints. I've done two bicycle frames and a motorbike with auto-air paint. When it works it's awesome, but if the finish isn't right first time then this "maybe I'll just try to sand it" thing happens, followed by much swearing and rapidly leading to stripping the paint and starting over.

Much cleaner than 2-pack though.

[flyingbalut]

In the September/October issue of AirBrush Action Magazine, there's a paint buyers guide article. I was surprised to find Golden acrylics listed for automotive use - even their heavy body acrylic is listed for automotive use. Has anyone used Golden brand acrylics paint? How does it compare to AA? How's the opaque coverage? How's the adhesion? I haven't found anything with better adhesion than AA on properly prepped surface, but I haven't used Golden on a frame yet.

[false_aesthetic]

Hey All,

I'm bringing this thread back up to see if there's anymore info or feedback ya'll can offer. I tried out the Createx UVLS clears on my new welding hood. I was pretty successful using a 1.0 nozzle on a touch-up gun.(Actually, it was harder to apply the 2k clear than it was the pearl.) I'm stoked to continue trying Createx's products.

What I'm really curious about though is using Createx's products as a DTM primer.

Both the AutoBorn sealers and UVLS clears are listed as DTM. Previously I've only used self-etch and 2k primers. I'd don't paint a lot but I'd love to minimize my reliance on solvent-based products.

Lastly, has anyone used any Createx products in combination with the Flake King guns? What were your results?

[false_aesthetic]

Bumping this up to the top.

[Todd Mosley]

For AutoBorne sealer, it depends which type of metal you are painting. According to the product sheet, https://storage.googleapis.com/creat...Sealer-TDS.pdf, you can use the sealer directly on aluminum, but if you are painting other metals, you'll need primer first.

But it looks like you can use the UVLS clear as a primer on steel, https://storage.googleapis.com/creat...Clears-TDS.pdf "Direct-to-Metal primer with excellent adhesion to any metal including brass and steel without risk of corrosion." I'm building a personal bike soon and may try this out. You could always paint a test tube and leave it outside and see what it does.