automatic/mechanical watches on a budget.

[Bobonli]

I shouldn't have.....

I was walking through the mall today, passed the Tourneau Rolex boutique and thought to myself "I wonder what they are charging for a cleaning & regulation service nowadays?" I have a 1991 production year Sub that hasn't been serviced in at least 12 years, so I went in to inquire. They threw it on a machine for a few minutes and told me it was +9 seconds a day. $750 for basic service, extra if it needs parts. Service will be done by them, rather than Rolex, since it's out of warranty but they charge the same as Rolex "because our watchmakers are certified by Rolex, so we follow their pricing structure for parts and service."

The watch rotates with two other watches for daily wear and, honestly, I haven't noticed the nine seconds. But now I know it's fast! I like to take care of my stuff but the Tourneau rep's comment was "if you're not bothered by it, leave it alone."

Worth it?

[NYCfixie]

The oils/lubrication wears out and needs to be replaced.
Watch parts can be damaged if they are not well lubricated.
The seals wear out and need to be replaced.
Water can into the watch and do serious damage if seals are not replaced and the watch not pressure tested.

I would NEVER EVER use Tourneau again for service even though my family and I have purchased many watches from them over the years. We have had way too many issues with them (parts delays, damage to the watch, not servicing it correctly which causes more problems). All stores send it to their service center in Long Island City.

Go to the Rolex NYC Service Center. If you cannot make it there during the week, they will send you a box and a pre-paid registered mail label. Even after the move to Boston I have dropped off my watch on a trip to NYC and just them send it back to me when done. My brother sends in his watches from Denver. Never a problem

Keep in mind that Rolex likes to make things all brand new and shiny so if your Sub is a valuable model (or the scratches/marks/patina are important to you), DO NOT have them polish the case, replace the hands, replace the dial, or replace the crystal unless it is damaged to the point of water getting into the case. If it is not valuable in the original state and you want it to look brand new, have them go crazy on it. Also, their base service cost is almost always the same as independent dealers such as Tourneau, the turn around is 3-4 weeks which is much faster than others, and why I am amazed anybody uses anyone other than Rolex for service.

ROLEX SERVICE CENTER NEW YORK
665 Fifth Avenue
New York
New York
United States
10022
Tel: +1 212 758 7700
Mon-Fri: 9:00am - 5:00pm

I shouldn't have.....

I was walking through the mall today, passed the Tourneau Rolex boutique and thought to myself "I wonder what they are charging for a cleaning & regulation service nowadays?" I have a 1991 production year Sub that hasn't been serviced in at least 12 years, so I went in to inquire. They threw it on a machine for a few minutes and told me it was +9 seconds a day. $750 for basic service, extra if it needs parts. Service will be done by them, rather than Rolex, since it's out of warranty but they charge the same as Rolex "because our watchmakers are certified by Rolex, so we follow their pricing structure for parts and service."

The watch rotates with two other watches for daily wear and, honestly, I haven't noticed the nine seconds. But now I know it's fast! I like to take care of my stuff but the Tourneau rep's comment was "if you're not bothered by it, leave it alone."

Worth it?

[AngryScientist]

I shouldn't have.....

I was walking through the mall today, passed the Tourneau Rolex boutique and thought to myself "I wonder what they are charging for a cleaning & regulation service nowadays?" I have a 1991 production year Sub that hasn't been serviced in at least 12 years, so I went in to inquire. They threw it on a machine for a few minutes and told me it was +9 seconds a day. $750 for basic service, extra if it needs parts. Service will be done by them, rather than Rolex, since it's out of warranty but they charge the same as Rolex "because our watchmakers are certified by Rolex, so we follow their pricing structure for parts and service."

The watch rotates with two other watches for daily wear and, honestly, I haven't noticed the nine seconds. But now I know it's fast! I like to take care of my stuff but the Tourneau rep's comment was "if you're not bothered by it, leave it alone."

Worth it?

(A) there are various schools of thought on the question. my view: if the watch is running OK, i would not open it up. i have heard from various trusted sources that opening/closing the watch is the most vulnerable time in it's life and the best chance of introducing contaminants to the inside of a watch. the rolex is a well sealed dive watch, and as long as it's running smoothly and ok, the lubricants are doing their job and you're OK. in my experience. i own a lot of automatic watches.

(B) after 12 years, i WOULD have the watch pressure tested to make sure the water tight integrity is still OK. chances are with Rolex's excellent triple lock crown design, and no other pushers, it will pass fine, but i'd do the test anyway, especially if you expose it to water frequently as i do.

(C) i concur with "do not let torneau touch your rolex". i too have had poor experience with their service department. i would let them pressure test it, that's fine, but if the case needs to be opened up, send it back to the mother ship.

(D) discussing the merits of a $750 service is probably not fodder for the "mech watches on a budget" thread, haha

[NYCfixie]

(A) there are various schools of thought on the question. my view: if the watch is running OK, i would not open it up. i have heard from various trusted sources that opening/closing the watch is the most vulnerable time in it's life and the best chance of introducing contaminants to the inside of a watch. the rolex is a well sealed dive watch, and as long as it's running smoothly and ok, the lubricants are doing their job and you're OK. in my experience. i own a lot of automatic watches.

I have spoken with a few watchmakers over the years and they all seem to say the same things:
- The lubricants wear out and need to be replaced. Rolex use to suggest service every 5 years but as lubricants used in watches improved over time now they suggest service every 10 years.
- A mechanical watch, has a mechanical movement, so parts wear out when used and often need to be replaced so they do not damage other parts in the movement.
- Seals wear out.

At least one of these watchmakers likened it to a car engine in which oil (the lubricant) wears at over time and use so it must be replaced at regular intervals.

Watches (AFAIK) are not hermetically sealed so a trained professional opening a case in a "clean environment" is fine as long as normal precautions are taken. Opening a case becomes a problem when untrained people open watch backs in dirty environments and for no reason. Even worse is when an untrained person offers a less expensive service which often only includes cleaning the outside of the case and bracelet, "adding" lubricant to the movement rather than actually taking it apart and cleaning it, not chaining the seals, and not pressure testing.

Knowing that most average Submariners value these days range from $7500 to $9500, 10% of the cost to service it every 10 years (or 12 years in this case) is a very small price to pay to keep the watch running well and in good shape. Another thing to consider is that Rolex movements are known to be bullet proof especially when you consider most other brands suggest service every 4-5 years often at the same cost.

Mike Michaels recently left WatchBox but he is a well known watchmaker and was the director of service for WatchBox.

[NYCfixie]

First new watch purchase of 2020. I backed another Kickstarter Project. It's the Phantom Watch Co Caleuche Diver (same owner as Hamtun Co who created the Kraken and Nanok).

I'll never learn (from the mistakes of 2019).

[dashDustin]

Watches (AFAIK) are not hermetically sealed

to get this back on topic -

a $150, hermetically sealed automatic with a 90hr power reserve: Swatch(R) United States - Swatch(R) - SISTEM51

[NYCfixie]

to get this back on topic -

a $150, hermetically sealed automatic with a 90hr power reserve: Swatch(R) United States - Swatch(R) - SISTEM51

Fair enough but Swatches are never meant to be serviced which is why they are sealed.

[Matthew Strongin]

to get this back on topic -

a $150, hermetically sealed automatic with a 90hr power reserve: Swatch(R) United States - Swatch(R) - SISTEM51

I still love my Sistem51.

[GonaSovereign]

I still love my Sistem51.

They're very impressive and appealing for what they are.

[jerk]

i still love my yellowed seethrough jellyfish with a swatch guard and my Lamborghini Countach trapper keeper. i just wish i had a second one and a GT Zaskar LE and a really overdone Germanic accent and mad trials skills.

[dgaddis]

First new watch purchase of 2020. I backed another Kickstarter Project. It's the Phantom Watch Co Caleuche Diver (same owner as Hamtun Co who created the Kraken and Nanok)

Funny enough, I'm in for one of those as well. I said no new watches this year, but I like the look of the white dial and at ~$230 it's cheap enough if I decide I don't like it I can flip it and not lose a lot of dough.

[Blue Jays]

My sense is a diving watch should come from factory with a metal bracelet, rubber strap, or kevlar strap.
Something that can more easily handle being dunked in water and/or soaked in sweat.
A leather strap might be something the individual buyer selects afterwards, yet that is his/her decision.

[dgaddis]

My sense is a diving watch should come from factory with a metal bracelet, rubber strap, or kevlar strap.
Something that can more easily handle being dunked in water and/or soaked in sweat.
A leather strap might be something the individual buyer selects afterwards, yet that is his/her decision.

I get that. Nice thing is it's a 20mm lug width, so I've already got a handful of NATO straps and a few silicone straps I can put on it if I don't like the leather. They do offer a bracelet as well, but I'll probably skip it just to keep the cost down.

[NYCfixie]

Funny enough, I'm in for one of those as well. I said no new watches this year, but I like the look of the white dial and at ~$230 it's cheap enough if I decide I don't like it I can flip it and not lose a lot of dough.

I got in at the £159 (~ $206) launch price. The white is the best choice and what I will pick when surveys go out. Knowing me, I'll probably have it for about 2 weeks before I flip it (my younger brother is already counting on that and why he did not back the project himself).

I still have the "selita" version of the Kraken H2 for sale if you want something less than twice the price, titanium, already comes with a rubber strap, and is much better quality. There is a Seiko NH35 version on eBay now so I am going to wait and see how that one does before I list mine (or you may see mine on a Random Rob Sunday Sale).

My sense is a diving watch should come from factory with a metal bracelet, rubber strap, or kevlar strap.
Something that can more easily handle being dunked in water and/or soaked in sweat.
A leather strap might be something the individual buyer selects afterwards, yet that is his/her decision.

I get that. Nice thing is it's a 20mm lug width, so I've already got a handful of NATO straps and a few silicone straps I can put on it if I don't like the leather. They do offer a bracelet as well, but I'll probably skip it just to keep the cost down.

As has been mentioned in many posts (and you probably already know), most people do not actually dive with their dive watches but I still think it was shortsighted of them to make a leather strap the only option (for now) even though it is more of a fashion watch than a serious dive watch. They will be offering a metal bracelet as a stretch goal at a cost of £50). Similar to Dustin, I have other options such as both a BluShark 20mm Silicone Rally and Kwick Change 2-Piece nylon for it.

[Blue Jays]

@NYCfixie, due to opportunity for high-quality croc, lizard, and leather straps to get funky over time...I only wear them with formal garments.
For day-to-day wear, when there is a chance for sweat, and/or if I wish flexibility to rinse the watch...I opt for steel bracelet / rubber strap / kevlar strap.

:-)

[NYCfixie]

@NYCfixie, due to opportunity for high-quality croc, lizard, and leather straps to get funky over time...I only wear them with formal garments.
For day-to-day wear, when there is a chance for sweat, and/or if I wish flexibility to rinse the watch...I opt for steel bracelet / rubber strap / kevlar strap.

:-)

For the 25+ years before 2019, I only wore bracelet watches.
In 2019, I did not own any of those inexpensive watches long enough for the few strap ones I had to get stinky.

One of these days when I actually purchase a proper dress watch, it will have an animal hide strap and be used on special occasions only (like you and many others do).

[Matthew Strongin]

I disagree. Nice things should be used. Straps are consumables. Wear them and replace them when they get worn out.

[Blue Jays]

"...I disagree. Nice things should be used. Straps are consumables. Wear them and replace them when they get worn out..."

Fair enough. If there is an easy opportunity to avoid saturating an "absorbent" strap, I'll take it.
If getting dressed for a more formal night out...there is a 99% chance the watch will have a croc or lizard strap.
If going out for a hike on a sweltering hot summer day I will opt for a metal bracelet or rubber strap every single time.

[Matthew Strongin]

Fair enough. If there is an easy opportunity to avoid saturating an "absorbent" strap, I'll take it.
If getting dressed for a more formal night out...there is a 99% chance the watch will have a croc or lizard strap.
If going out for a hike on a sweltering hot summer day I will opt for a metal bracelet or rubber strap every single time.

Well, sure, I'd never advocate for hiking in a JLC Reverso on croc. But for every day use, it'll be fine. For hiking, I'd recommend a G-Shock or a Swatch Sistem51 (but only if you also bring a Lambo trapper keeper for Craig).

[NYCfixie]

Well, sure, I'd never advocate for hiking in a JLC Reverso on croc. But for every day use, it'll be fine. For hiking, I'd recommend a G-Shock or a Swatch Sistem51 (but only if you also bring a Lambo trapper keeper for Craig).

Why not?

It was the original sports (i.e. Polo) watch. Do the well heeled not sweat like the rest of us mere mortals?