The Seven Shoe Wardrobe

[NYCfixie]

Which of these two is the more "business casual shoe"?

AE Barnett


AE Leeds

[caleb]

Have you seen them both in person?

I once bought a pair of Leeds and regretted it. They look okay in the photos, but in person they look anything but svelte.

The Alden Plain Toe Blutchers look about the same in photos, but they're much better in person: Alden Men'''s 9926 - Plain Toe Blucher - Dark Brown Smooth Calfskin - The Shoe Mart

If you want a split toe, Alden also makes a great one: The Ultimate Color #8 Norwegian Split Toe Blucher &#8 211; Alden of San Diego



I realize this is a PITA non-responsive response, but putting these into categories isn't going to help you decide on nice shoes. You could wear all of these with jeans or wool flannels.

[NYCfixie]

Have you seen them both in person?

I once bought a pair of Leeds and regretted it. They look okay in the photos, but in person they look anything but svelte.

The Alden Plain Toe Blutchers look about the same in photos, but they're much better in person: Alden Men'''s 9926 - Plain Toe Blucher - Dark Brown Smooth Calfskin - The Shoe Mart

If you want a split toe, Alden also makes a great one: The Ultimate Color #8 Norwegian Split Toe Blucher &#8 211; Alden of San Diego


I realize this is a PITA non-responsive response, but putting these into categories isn't going to help you decide on nice shoes. You could wear all of these with jeans or wool flannels.

Nope, this is helpful. I want something nice and classic but not to formal and also not too casual.

I was at AE this weekend when I special ordered the Leeds in suede at a trunk show (pic in thread on previous page). They work for me because they are built on the 511 last which is the same as used for the Wilberts (pic in previous thread) I already own; they have a wider foot area and a narrower heel area.

My wife and I looked at the cordovan Leeds in both black (which looked like it would only work for a military uniform because it was so shiny) and the burgundy which was also so shiny it looked like plastic. In calfskin, the black was much more subdued and the coffee color shown above is really nice too so I think it really depends on the skin used and the dye chosen.

The Alden split toe looks very similar to my Johnston & Murphy Moc Toe (pic in thread on previous page) and it might be a good fit because I already own 2 cap toe (more formal) and 2 penny loafer slip-on (less formal) pair of Brooks Brothers by Alden shoes that work well for me.

Someone turned me onto Carmina which appears to be at a price and quality point in-between Allen Edmonds and Alden. They have a store in NYC so when I am there in a few weeks visiting family I plan to stop by and try them on. These split-toe Norwegians look really nice and might work (depending on fit).

[moondog-sparky]

In case it’s not clear, Alden of San Diego is a single shoe enthusiast - Mike - and not an Alden retailer. By my estimate, he has around 140+ pairs of Alden’s, many of which are unicorns / unobtainium stuff. Great guy & knowledgeable.

PM me if you’d like details on good Alden retailers....I’m all about their shoes!

I have Carmina as well, but feel like nobody does shell cordovan better than Alden.

[moondog-sparky]

3E5F98F7-7D2E-4AAE-A0DE-7A3A969FD9D2.jpeg
Hope this works...pic:
Alden captoe blucher in cigar today.

[Lionel]

For a very nice split toe derby: Edward Green Dover.

[NYCfixie]

In case it’s not clear, Alden of San Diego is a single shoe enthusiast - Mike - and not an Alden retailer. By my estimate, he has around 140+ pairs of Alden’s, many of which are unicorns / unobtainium stuff. Great guy & knowledgeable.

PM me if you’d like details on good Alden retailers....I’m all about their shoes!

I have Carmina as well, but feel like nobody does shell cordovan better than Alden.

I can go to Alden's company owned stores in Boston or NYC (unless I shouldn't for some reason).
Will PM about Carmina.

For a very nice split toe derby: Edward Green Dover.

Locations in Newton/Boston, NYC, and Denver should work. Might be a bit more than I want to spend on an everyday business casual shoe but even with the shoes I currently have, I still do not have the classic black cap toe oxford so I'll check them out.

[Lionel]

Locations in Newton/Boston, NYC, and Denver should work. Might be a bit more than I want to spend on an everyday business casual shoe but even with the shoes I currently have, I still do not have the classic black cap toe oxford so I'll check them out.

For the classic black cap toe oxford, John Lobb City !

[NYCfixie]

For the classic black cap toe oxford, John Lobb City !

Thanks but not in London until probably this summer.

[Paul Jacobs]

Oxfords from Oxford. Shoes by Ducker and Son of Oxford who sadly no longer exist and this is my last remaining pair.

[Lionel]

Thanks but not in London until probably this summer.

You can easily find them in the US

[slwrnu]

if you are in London the sales start second half of July. For shoes, Trickers at the western end of Jermyn St (nearest tube is Green Park) is worth a visit and it is a quirky old fashioned place and the staff will serve you well. I have some suede ankle boots from years ago, and have had them resoled (Dainite) and relined (they did this without asking), a good addition to your shoe wardrobe.

[NYCfixie]

When do you wear Black or Brown shoes?

I have always been of the opinion that if one wears a blue, grey, or black suit (or trousers with a coat and tie, or a tux), it should be paired with black shoes. In almost any other shade (brown, olive, khaki, seersucker, etc) suit one should wear brown shoes in a shade that compliments the pants (or overall outfit).

Do you follow this same logic?

Do you follow the "Italian rule" which is that black shoes should only be worn by occasion (funeral, wedding, black-tie) otherwise only brown shoes (shade appropriate) should be worn with everything else no matter the color of suit/jacket and pants/etc?

[Lionel]

Black is more formal. I wear a lot of brown and suede shoes because silicon valley is very casual. I like burgundy shoes as well, not as formal as black, not as casual as brown.

[deano]

Do you follow the "Italian rule" which is that black shoes should only be worn by occasion (funeral, wedding, black-tie) otherwise only brown shoes (shade appropriate) should be worn with everything else no matter the color of suit/jacket and pants/etc?

I follow the Italian rule and I get away with it, since I actually only have brown shoes and a blue suit right now. (Pared down wardrobe, will add some black when needed). Weddings in the South are chic-informal and I am young enough that funerals of late have only been people I knew from work (turn around 3x, spit, curse) - I was a retirement community chaplain until recently, so I was working, ha! I wore an alb for that stuff. But yeah, had I decided to finish the priesthood thing I would have needed all black! Brown situates me in the laity in day to day life and I like that. I'll be caught off guard if there's a funeral, but if there's a formal occasion where black is required, I'd be renting anyway at this point.

[caleb]

I'm with @Lionel . I have a pair of black AE Park Avenues, and I pretty much only wear them for weddings and funerals. I think you're either a black shoes guy or you're not. I'm not, but other people wear black shoes every single day of their lives. That's fine.

I feel like Horween number 8 shell is the single most versatile shoe color on the planet. You can wear it with anything except a truly black suit.

[NYCfixie]

Black is more formal. I wear a lot of brown and suede shoes because silicon valley is very casual. I like burgundy shoes as well, not as formal as black, not as casual as brown.

I follow the Italian rule and I get away with it, since I actually only have brown shoes and a blue suit right now.

I'm with @Lionel . I have a pair of black AE Park Avenues, and I pretty much only wear them for weddings and funerals. I think you're either a black shoes guy or you're not. I'm not, but other people wear black shoes every single day of their lives. That's fine.

I feel like Horween number 8 shell is the single most versatile shoe color on the planet. You can wear it with anything except a truly black suit.

All good points.

My references:

My father's father (aka my grandfather) was an engineer at (Northrop) Grumman on Long Island after he came out of the military and as far as I can remember he always wore to work wool trousers, dress shirt, tie, no jacket, and Florsheim Imperial Wingtips in either black or brown depending on the color of his pants. For more formal events when he was in a suit, it was always the black wingtips. I am not sure he even owned a pair of jeans or sneakers.

My father is a physician and he always wears trousers, dress shirt, bow tie (he is short with a big personality and can pull it off), and either black or oxblood Brooks Brothers (by Alden) tassel loafers in the hospital and chooses which ones by the color of his pants. When he is seeing patients the jacket/blazer comes off and the white lab coat goes on. For days when it is all meetings and/or he is traveling and presenting at conferences, or for more formal events, it is always a navy or charcoal suit with black cap-toe oxfords.

So, that is probably why I tend to wear black shoes more often.

[AngryScientist]

black's OK with a splash of brown!

ultra-casual day for me today. visiting clients in the field. Alden Indy's got the call-up. I own a lot of shoes, but these are some of my favorites to wear. so comfortable and functional.

IMG_5145.jpg

[slwrnu]

when I worked in the City of London as a young lawyer, the convention was Mon-Thursday black shoes, then on Friday brown, because of course you were going straight to your country home.

[NYCfixie]

when I worked in the City of London as a young lawyer, the convention was Mon-Thursday black shoes, then on Friday brown, because of course you were going straight to your country home.

And I assume you were wearing your Tricker's brown "Country Shoes".