Hand Tools and Machinery for Country Living

[caleb]

*The intelligenter thing to do? Let the rounds dry out over the fall, winter, and spring, and have back at it next summer- I hear beech splits a lot easier when it's not about 67% moisture.

Split it on the coldest day of the winter. Sub-zero splitting is the best.

[monadnocky]

Split it on the coldest day of the winter. Sub-zero splitting is the best.

Indeed! But I'm not sure with this one. I mean this beech has a really, really, REALLY high moisture content. I envision it would be like attempting to split a wood-impregnated block of ice.
Beech is weird- ? It's like the grain isn't really there, and what is there doesn't serve to assist in splitting. It just kind of mushes apart in the splitter. Who would have known.

Also, looking at the trunk rounds, it's like there's these three or four hyperdensities within the tree - almost as if there are denser sub-trunks within the trunks. Anyway, hardest stuff I've ever split.

[j44ke]

We were lucky. The ash had been dead but stayed upright for a while. When we put it on the splitter it popped apart like a small explosion. No rot just dry.

Cherry was a completely different experience. Like splitting an octopus.

[Tom]

Never had to split beech much, our woods didn't have it but our neighbors a quarter mile to the east at the same elevation did. Ash was easy to split, you could do it with an axe. Very straight grain.

[ides1056]

I fell trees in early spring and let them leaf out on the ground, which pulls the moisture out. Then I cut, split and pile. I stack in the fall- right now. Ash is ready to go in a matter of months. Every other species takes longer.

[jimcav]

I don't live in the country now, but briefly owned 6 acres that bordered a river with lots of trees. In addition to what I saw listed, I highly recommend a 27 foot telescoping silky pole saw. With that and my ladder I was able to take down some really high branches that I didn't want coming down at an inopportune time.

I love seeing the thread with the build of your property BTW!

[72gmc]

Dad built a simple woodshed when I was a kid, an L shape footprint open to the south and east. There's no way that's going to keep wood dry, kid me thought, but kid me was wrong.

[caleb]

Indeed! But I'm not sure with this one. I mean this beech has a really, really, REALLY high moisture content. I envision it would be like attempting to split a wood-impregnated block of ice.
Beech is weird- ? It's like the grain isn't really there, and what is there doesn't serve to assist in splitting. It just kind of mushes apart in the splitter. Who would have known.

Also, looking at the trunk rounds, it's like there's these three or four hyperdensities within the tree - almost as if there are denser sub-trunks within the trunks. Anyway, hardest stuff I've ever split.

I've never split beech. That does not sound like fun.

[Too Tall]

Who here told me to get the Agawa Canyon folding buck saw? I want to sincerely thank you that is a heck of a well done piece of kit.
Fear not, this rabbit hole is not deep >> https://agawacanyoninc.com/
After a lifetime destroying junky bow saws this one will last.

[j44ke]

I don't live in the country now, but briefly owned 6 acres that bordered a river with lots of trees. In addition to what I saw listed, I highly recommend a 27 foot telescoping silky pole saw. With that and my ladder I was able to take down some really high branches that I didn't want coming down at an inopportune time.

I love seeing the thread with the build of your property BTW!

Thanks!

[jclay]

This may be old news or otherwise past it's "sell by" date; never the less:

The British Columbia Forest Safety Council produces chainsaw training material & videos. I found some abbreviated clips on youtube a few years ago; they're worth watching; here's one that I just grabbed as an entry point for interested folks. The ones I watched made me a better, safer amateur faller and saw jocky:

It's more than just watching your upper/outer (bar nose).

Chain sharpening via hand file is a basic, worthwhile skill. Unless I was sharpening a heck of a lot of chains regularly I wouldn't use anything but my chain sharpening file and when in the shop my vise (with friendly jaw covers) to hold the entire saw by the kickback locked bar. With a little bit of internet "how to" info it's quick and easy.

My little Sthil 011 died. After 30 years of stellar service the bar stud pulled out of the case and the repair (tap for a larger stud) failed. It was an excellent little saw, and at this point all I'd ever need but for folks in a purchasing mode I'd recommend sticking with designs that use two bar studs (as most saws larger than mine do); that's an inherently superior way to affix the bar and you (or at least I) wouldn't be as likely to over-torque the bolt. I don't know if I was heavy handed, I tend not to be, or if it was just time, but I expected to have that saw until cutting trees was no longer on my menu.

[ides1056]

I've had one of the studs on my 044 replaced, and it's starting to give again.

https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/...3df-4e13-970f/

When it goes I will replace the part.

I fixed my 028 rather than shell out $600 for a comparable new saw. They aren't that difficult to work on, really.

[jclay]

I've had one of the studs on my 044 replaced, and it's starting to give again.

https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/...3df-4e13-970f/

When it goes I will replace the part.

I fixed my 028 rather than shell out $600 for a comparable new saw. They aren't that difficult to work on, really.

Did your stud fail, or did the case threading fail? Stud is cheap; the crankcase half not so much. I drilled & tapped the case for a larger stud, used lock-tight red (the stud penetrates the gas tank) and it leaks. Game over short of getting a new crankcase half. I wasn't able to fixture the case properly so the axis of the enlarged hole was a tad off. I also used a borrowed tap which I discovered, too late, wasn't very sharp. It displaced the hole wall adjacent an area that didn't have a lot of meat. My guess, and I haven't checked, is that a replacement case half would probably be at least 2/3 the cost of a new saw of the same class. That's not worthwhile...though I suppose I should check.

[ides1056]

Did your stud fail, or did the case threading fail? Stud is cheap; the crankcase half not so much. I drilled & tapped the case for a larger stud, used lock-tight red (the stud penetrates the gas tank) and it leaks. Game over short of getting a new crankcase half. I wasn't able to fixture the case properly so the axis of the enlarged hole was a tad off. I also used a borrowed tap which I discovered, too late, wasn't very sharp. It displaced the hole wall adjacent an area that didn't have a lot of meat. My guess, and I haven't checked, is that a replacement case half would probably be at least 2/3 the cost of a new saw of the same class. That's not worthwhile...though I suppose I should check.

I took it to the place I bought it and they put a threaded insert in which the new stud threads into. I forget what they called it. Anyway, it's not holding well. I'd rather not ditch the saw, because it's not that old and it's German-made. We'll see if it fails.

I checked out the new ones, and I'd have to get a 261 C-M to replace the 028. To replace the 044 would be really pricey. Given the amount I use them, anything but the pro saws doesn't make sense.

[Too Tall]

If any of you bums are interested in my modified (carb) DOLMAR PS-5100 5100 SH CHAINSAW 18"BAR let me know. It is a very fast running saw. I'm going to hunt for something a little less wildcat ;)

LOL It has a heated grip. No kidding.

[jclay]

I took it to the place I bought it and they put a threaded insert in which the new stud threads into. I forget what they called it. Anyway, it's not holding well. I'd rather not ditch the saw, because it's not that old and it's German-made. We'll see if it fails.

I checked out the new ones, and I'd have to get a 261 C-M to replace the 028. To replace the 044 would be really pricey. Given the amount I use them, anything but the pro saws doesn't make sense.

Either a Time-Sert or Helicoil; functionally what I attempted but with an insert intermediary. It's really a difficult operation to execute well on things that are nearly impossible to fixture remotely accurately on a drill press; centered on the hole, parallel axes, static setup through the tool changes. Hopefully yours was done far better than I was able and the stud just needs thread locker; sounds like they used the stock size stud rather than an oversize on the case end, as I used. If that's the case then it might be be simply unscrewing. Hope so. Sux to lose a good saw to that problem.

[jclay]

If any of you bums are interested in my modified (carb) DOLMAR PS-5100 5100 SH CHAINSAW 18"BAR let me know. It is a very fast running saw. I'm going to hunt for something a little less wildcat ;)

LOL It has a heated grip. No kidding.

What I wanna know is how u like ur dolmar (or now Makita); and Jonesered for any who have one.

That's a 50cc class saw, no? Did the mods actually make it faster cutting?

[Too Tall]

What I wanna know is how u like ur dolmar (or now Makita); and Jonesered for any who have one.

That's a 50cc class saw, no? Did the mods actually make it faster cutting?

Runs like a r@ped ape. Almost never run it full throttle, it's just fast. I think it deserves someone who has more need. It is Makita now. Mine was sourced from a Canadian timber supply shop who did the mods. Never skips a beat.

I'm more of a Farmboss kinda guy.

[nahtnoj]

Are you considering a tractor? Planning on maintaining walking paths and such?

[crumpton]

I didn’t read the entire thread so if this is a repeat, it needs to be repeated.

Save yourself a lot of trouble and buy pre-mix 92 octane fuel for that new saw. It’s Ethanol free, ready to go and well worth it.

Then learn to clean the spark arrester. This is what the guys at the shop do with 80% of their time.