Jeans:

[cody.wms]

Also, the detail, thought, and time that go these jeans is kinda crazy. Expensive, yes, but wow.

[Brandon White]

Also, the detail, thought, and time that go these jeans is kinda crazy. Expensive, yes, but wow.

Yeah, Roy is no joke. Start to finish by him only, I think (from what I remember - I saw some denim video on him).

[cody.wms]

Yeah, Roy is no joke. Start to finish by him only, I think (from what I remember - I saw some denim video on him).

Yep, it's just him for everything, which is pretty crazy. I remember an interview where he said he can sew 8 pairs a day if everything is cut and goes right. I think there are lots of parallels with what he (and some others like him) do and the framebuilder community.

[Brandon White]

Yep, it's just him for everything, which is pretty crazy. I remember an interview where he said he can sew 8 pairs a day if everything is cut and goes right. I think there are lots of parallels with what he (and some others like him) do and the framebuilder community.

Most certainly there are connections in the craft, materials, and attention to detail. I can't believe he can knock out 8! That seems like a lot.

[theflashunc]

Just to revive this thread, I jumped into things with a couple pairs from Shockoe Denim out of Richmond. Really happy with them so far, though the break in period will be extensive.

Not bad to have some denim made in Richmond with materials sourced in a revived textile mill in Greensboro not too far from where I grew up.

[DrZRM]

Picked up a pair of Gustins (Super Heavy 17oz in their straight fit) and like them a lot. They crowdsource, and sell direct to customer, and for the price, they seem to be very well made. They use very nice denims (lots of different choices) and they are all made in the USA.

Still not cheap but certainly cheaper than some of the brands discussed above (around $100) and you have to wait a bit for delivery, but seems like a workable business model.

I won't post a referral link here, but PM me if you want a $5 off you first pair link.

https://www.weargustin.com/store

[boots2000]

What is up with Levi's these days?
I went to the Levi's store in downtown SF and tried on a bunch of Vintage 501 and also current shrink to fit 501- they all felt like shit.
Tight in legs/loose in waist.
I am not built like a model- but I am 5'10 and only about 145 lb. How big can my legs be?
Also, I have 2 other pairs of Levi's that I purchased in the last year- 505and 559. 559 are more comfortable, but both feel like they are about to fall off my ass because of the low rise.

[nahtnoj]

Yep. All the Levi's I tried were like that for me. 559 even were hugged up on my legs to the point of being unwearable. And the waist on the 36 was closer more like 38.

[Wisco]

I swore off Levi's may years ago as I am a 200+lbs "track sprinter" with big quads, hamstrings and butt. Nothing would ever fit there without being way too big in the waist. I finally did buy a pair of 550s. Why? Slim but not skinny jeans but with enough room for my thighs. Also sit at the natural waist "mature dude" style instead of the below your belly button hipster crap. They also a true tapered straight leg. Maybe I'll get another pair someday.

For selvedge, I've had good luck with Tellason Ankara (although they sit closer to belly button than I'd prefer) and The Field Selvedge Jean - The Field Outfitting Company, another mid-rise, natural waist cut.

[boots2000]

I am pretty sure a 550 is only "slim but not skinny" on 200+ track sprinters- not so much on 5'10 and 145 lb.

I swore off Levi's may years ago as I am a 200+lbs "track sprinter" with big quads, hamstrings and butt. Nothing would ever fit there without being way too big in the waist. I finally did buy a pair of 550s. Why? Slim but not skinny jeans but with enough room for my thighs. Also sit at the natural waist "mature dude" style instead of the below your belly button hipster crap. They also a true tapered straight leg. Maybe I'll get another pair someday.

For selvedge, I've had good luck with Tellason Ankara (although they sit closer to belly button than I'd prefer) and The Field Selvedge Jean - The Field Outfitting Company, another mid-rise, natural waist cut.

[Wisco]

Ah, yup. My point being that Levi's have migrated to "skinny" across the board, but that there is hope within their line as well as other options.

I am pretty sure a 550 is only "slim but not skinny" on 200+ track sprinters- not so much on 5'10 and 145 lb.

[Too Tall]

Update. The Imogene and Willy's are great and kudos to them for going the extra mile to get my size right. "Sizing" jeans is kinda like "fitting" people on bikes oooooouch. I save them for when I need to look presentable in jeans and jeans is expected or right for the occasion blah blah blah but man $200 for jeans is crazy talk I must have been weak at the time. No regrets. Despite that shock to the system I was looking for a local to Maryland jean maker and found Ori: https://www.facebook.com/wearorijeans and at $150 not inexpensive but worth a shot since the designer is local. The Jeans themselves are sewn in Romania which from past experience is nothing short of amazing for cycling duds. Their web constructor program: OriJeans - Tailored Selvedge Denim / Constructor let's you send them your (haha) contact points and they do the rest. I've been wearing them for a couple weeks, several washings and dang if they are not my favorite now. The rear pocket, a real motivational force, is sized to fit larger smartphones YES :) The Japanese cloth is really nice.

Some mention needs to be made of Raw Selvedge Denim Jeans and Raw Denim | Tellason 'cuase if Mr. Richard says it is righteous than it bloody well is.

The bad news is that I just refreshed my stack of Levi 501 shrink to fit, which I do every few years and their quality is...well incredible and the price...well about $50 from Shepler's. The real trick to 501 shrink to fit is to find your correct size and break them in with extreme prejudice and sorry to the guys with sprinters legs it's a no go.

[dugafola]

The bad news is that I just refreshed my stack of Levi 501 shrink to fit, which I do every few years and their quality is...well incredible and the price...well about $50 from Shepler's. The real trick to 501 shrink to fit is to find your correct size and break them in with extreme prejudice and sorry to the guys with sprinters legs it's a no go.

i'm also wearing almost exclusively 501 stf. i can't justify spending more $$$ on designer jeans when i tend to blow them out after a few wears. i'm not super big or anthing (6'3" 200lbs) but just hard on clothes i guess. you can get 501 stf for ~$40 depending on the sale.

[brunop]

i like wrangler's original cowboy cut 13mwz for regular priced jeans (around 35 bucks). but man o man would i like some of the heavyweight tellasons!!

[Andrevich4]

Their web constructor program: OriJeans - Tailored Selvedge Denim / Constructor let's you send them your (haha) contact points and they do the rest.

Nice. Another potential market for a fitter.

The bad news is that I just refreshed my stack of Levi 501 shrink to fit, which I do every few years and their quality is...well incredible and the price...well about $50 from Shepler's. The real trick to 501 shrink to fit is to find your correct size and break them in with extreme prejudice and sorry to the guys with sprinters legs it's a no go.

What's your technique? I'd like to take a pair of Dickie's and see if I can make them wear like a set of my daily wearing Lucky's (which despite their rep previously in the thread I've worn almost daily for 3 years and love).

Anyone tried L.C. King out of Bristol, Virginia/Tennessee?

https://www.pointerbrand.com

I've just got the dense leg problem so finding a pair that fits in the waist is tough.

[Mr B]

Towards the end of last summer I bought two pairs of Gap 1969 Japanese Selvedge jeans - a slim pair and a skinny pair. These are the first jeans I've ever elected to wear for 6+ months without washing, and they're ageing nicely.
To speak to concerns of bacteria, smell and funk, Winter is the time to break raw denim in.
I've worn both pairs through this recent NYC winter (even when riding my SSCX bike in snow) and the 'freezer effect' can be replicated simply by wearing them outdoors in minus-fifteen-degree weather over clean underwear and full thermals.
As long as this city promises to warm the fuck up in the next 30 days, I think they're pretty much ready for their first wash. This thread needs more pictures, so I'll post some pre- and post-wash snaps.

[David Tollefson]

...wear for 6+ months without washing...

This gave me great pause. Um, people really do this? I must not get out much.

[Mr B]

This gave me great pause. Um, people really do this? I must not get out much.

If I still lived in California, I wouldn't even entertain the idea. But when presented with luscious dark raw denim and the prospect of a long cold NY winter wearing thermals under everything, jeans take on the leg-equivalent of a jean- or leather jacket.
And you don't go washing those every week now do you?

[Brandon White]

This gave me great pause. Um, people really do this? I must not get out much.

Yes, this is a thing. 6 months in the winter is easy. A lot of people take the months recommendation too seriously. It just boils down to the basic principals of cleanliness - if they are dirty or something might stain them, spot clean. If they stink, eliminate the bacteria by either freezing them or washing them. For washing, a soak is usually recommended with dr bronners or woolite to preserve color.

[dugafola]

for my 501 STFs, i'll wear for a couple months but rotated with other pairs. I usually size my waist as is but add 2 inches to length. I'll wear them and take a hot shower. Let them drip dry for an hour or so and then put them in between 2 towels while i walk on them. That usually gets them to the point to where i can put them on and wear them until they become dry. the goal here is to not let the waist shrink too much. you also want to avoid doing any power squats etc while they are still wet to help maintain their shape.