handlebar wall thickness

[2wheelrider]

I'm going to try building my first set of handlebars. My thought is somewhere between Rody's luv handles and a Jones style bar intended to go onto my 29er. My question is what wall thickness to use if I'm building with 4130. The grip portion will be standard diameter but I was thinking of 1 inch round for the cross bar and hope to integrate to bar to the stem once I figure out the length and angles needed. Any help would be apprieciated.

[Dornbox]

Not to Highjack the thread, but I've been thinking about doing a Ti set and would love to hear tubing recommendations for it as well. -Chris

[edoz]

I've got a couple of True Temper steel handlebars (raw, perfect for bar/stem combos) and the wall thickness at the ends is .85mm. I don't know exactly how they're made, but I suspect the center section is thinner, where it's bulged out to 1". I'd consider .035" 4130 a minimum, but personally would lean towards thicker. An extra .010-.020" won't give you a hernia or anything.

[steve garro]

I've got a couple of True Temper steel handlebars (raw, perfect for bar/stem combos) and the wall thickness at the ends is .85mm.

yeah, but that's not designed to have a fat HAZ & a welded on stress riser. cuidado, cunados - Garro.

[WadePatton]

I just posted a parallel question at TFC wrt stem walls. Rody and I discussed this on the phone once, but I lost my notes. Rody's bars, btw rock and I've no never nohow none nada nilch nyet noway to improve upon them. which leaves me free to do other stuff. thanks rody.

[edoz]

yeah, but that's not designed to have a fat HAZ & a welded on stress riser. cuidado, cunados - Garro.

Ha! My first trip to Google translate said 'tightness' and 'revaccinate'. Since I know what cuidado means, you're telling me be careful and what?

[steve garro]

Ha! My first trip to Google translate said 'tightness' and 'revaccinate'. Since I know what cuidado means, you're telling me be careful and what?

It means "careful, brother in-law" translation from Mexican: "I'm warning you AND i **** your sister" - Garro.

[edoz]

It means "careful, brother in-law" translation from Mexican: "I'm warning you AND i **** your sister" - Garro.

Ahahaha! Once you edited it, I recognized cuidado from those plastic wet floor signs that have Spanish on one side. Probably a poor way to learn a language, but the Mexican guys at work only teach me bad stuff.

I've got one built into a bar/stem combo that's held up well for a couple of years. That could be partially the powdercoat though, cause the guy put about .060" of it on!

[VertigoCycles]

Rody's bars, btw rock and I've no never nohow none nada nilch nyet noway to improve upon them. which leaves me free to do other stuff. thanks rody.

I 100% agree with that thought. Rody's bars are the perfect shape (for me) and they're going to have a place on every MTB I own from here on out.

[2wheelrider]

Its true I could just get a set of Rody's but for whatever reason I like to do things myself even if it takes twice as long, cost twice as much and comes out half as good. I guess I enjoy the journey as much as the destination. I was leaning towards using .048 but if anyone has experience to share that would be great.

[WadePatton]

Its true I could just get a set of Rody's but for whatever reason I like to do things myself even if it takes twice as long, cost twice as much and comes out half as good. I guess I enjoy the journey as much as the destination. I was leaning towards using .048 but if anyone has experience to share that would be great.

maybe better than 1/2 as good, but _yes_ it's really easy to spend 2x as much and take 2x as long (or more) ...

[Dornbox]

Its true I could just get a set of Rody's but for whatever reason I like to do things myself even if it takes twice as long, cost twice as much and comes out half as good. I guess I enjoy the journey as much as the destination. I was leaning towards using .048 but if anyone has experience to share that would be great.

+1

There are plenty of cats who make great bikes, why would any of us bother when we could all be riding (insert favorite builder here)! Or when do you think Richard will start putting woundup or edge forks on his bikes...?

Seriously though, it's in the blood. Why buy it if you can (and want to) build it? Better translated "SOPWAMTOS" (thanks Drew).

EDOZ- I grew up in SoCal around LA and was raised in a 99.9% Spanish neighborhood. Once upon a time I could cuss you out like a mofo but couldn't ask your name... when I was 10.

Garro- I didn't get the translation either , but that's some seriously funny $hit.

-Chris

[Rody]

Hey all,

just a quick response since I'm on the road.

From a design and fabrication standpoint, bars are one of the most critical pieces to get right. An error here can have long reaching effects both physically and legally for a builder...failure of this piece is often acute and rarely ends well for the rider.

With the disclaimer out of the way, I'd recommend mocking up your first bar with heavier than normal wall in the diameter your design requires...this will leave you a margin of error to work with during testing. In steel, that means using .049. Ti has a much smaller allowance for fabrication variances, so something in the .050's is appropriate if you've never fabbed a bar before.

Once you get your design and fab skill down, you can scale down the material thickness to meet your performance criteria. FWIW, below .035 steel you should consider heat treating to return material strength.

Your grip sections will need to be .0875 to be compatible with controls, your center should be at least 1.0 for greater strength and surface area contact at the grip intersection. Trying to use 1.25" to match the current standard for carbon/al bar clamp sizes is a low success strategy, as the amount of swaging necessary to meet the .875 sections creates a peak in the material resulting in an eventual stress rise, bad for durability.

Have fun and make sure to post up some pics.

rody

[2wheelrider]

Thanks Rody! I have another project to finish first but hope to order some material and get a fixture going soon. If I get the time I hope to start in a week or so. Also still wondering if I should braze or hit it with the tig, might try both and see how they come out.

[2wheelrider]

Thanks Rody! I have another project to finish first but hope to order some material and get a fixture going soon. If I get the time I hope to start in a week or so. Also still wondering if I should braze or hit it with the tig, might try both and see how they come out.

[Dornbox]

Thank Rody!

I should be moving to a new larger shop at some point in April. Once I recover I'll be on it!

[edoz]

Hey all,

Trying to use 1.25" to match the current standard for carbon/al bar clamp sizes is a low success strategy, as the amount of swaging necessary to meet the .875 sections creates a peak in the material resulting in an eventual stress rise, bad for durability.


rody

This made me think about the pierced tube style joint, like a Dekerf wishbone.

[Archibald]

Another prop for Rody's Luv Handles. I torture tested them on a loaded bike over the length of the CT and countless miles elsewhere. They're solid. Just like my lovin'.

[fpavao]

Digging up the thread.

How about aluminum handlebars? Anyone knows what kind of thickness they should be? For general city use, not trail or anything too punishing.

Thanks

[EricKeller]

I have no idea about aluminum, depends on what series.

Just thought I'd note that the Paragon shims are really nice.