Minimalist tendencies, wardrobe needs

[OnTheEllipse]

I have a specific question and a general question.

Specifiically, I'd like to invest in a nice pair of shoes. I own a single black suit, a single black sport coat and a couple pairs of charcoal, dressy-ish slacks. I have two pairs of black dress shoes I don't particularly like. I do have a decent selection of nice shirts. I'd like to purchase some decent brown oxfords, but I'm guessing, given the rest of my wardrobe, they wouldn't well. For the sake of versatility...to expand the function if this small wardrobe with the least amount of items...what would be the one or two smart purchases to make? Blue/grey sport coat? Brown oxfords?

More generally, what are the staples? Before you become alarmed, I'm 33 and work in "the music industry", so the number of occasions per year that require this sort of attire can probably be counted on two hands, but they are becoming more frequent. For a dilettante such as myself, please help me take the appropriate steps towards a proper wardrobe; a proper wardrobe smaller than my girlfriends.

[OnTheEllipse]

Apologies for typos. Punched out on an iPhone while enjoying an Oskar Blues Imperial Red at lunch. Your listening has helped me pass the awkward solo time. Thanks in advance.

[Noteddy]

Brown oxfords would not be out of place with a black suit except in the most formal of occasions. I like the idea of a soft grey jacket. It would take some of the severity out of the black wardrobe. I like black myself, but it is lately considered more formal. At least in a suit.

[OnTheEllipse]

Brown oxfords would not be out of place with a black suit except in the most formal of occasions.

really? i feel like everything I've heard suggests the contrary.

[Ben]

If your goal is genuinely to buy as little as you can, and to buy once and for all (or at least once for the next 20 years), I say Allen-Edmonds Park Avenues in black.


They may not be on the leading edge of fashion, but they are something much, much better from your perspective -- they're timeless.
They will be appropriate for any event where you are called upon to dress up, from business meetings to weddings to funerals to meeting the President (who will probably be wearing them, too).
They will be perfectly acceptable with anything you need to wear them with, from patterned slacks to evening wear.
You will have them forever and never regret buying them. I know I haven't.

[Ben]

really? i feel like everything I've heard suggests the contrary.

I agree with you, OTE. I really like English tan shoes with a black suit (and the right shirt and tie), but it's a more casual look.

[Noteddy]

[QUOTE=Ben;356860]If your goal is genuinely to buy as little as you can, and to buy once and for all (or at least once for the next 20 years), I say Allen-Edmonds Park Avenues in black.

Couldn't agree more with the sentiment. My (older) cole Haan's are on their fourth set of soles. (the newer ones are a bit hit and miss, but they still fit me better than anything else.). But I noted that you didn't like the black shoes you already have. Depends on why. Find the right ones and treat them well.

I'm old. And old school, so I struggle with the brown shoe problem. But this seems to be a non issue now a-days.

[OnTheEllipse]

But I noted that you didn't like the black shoes you already have. Depends on why.

They're simply of poor quality. Not to mention, they're square toed, which I'm now self conscious of, thanks to this subforum.

[chasea]

Johnston and Murphy Tyndall Wingtips. $150, get both the black and the tan. Rubber sole, upkeep is minimal. Dresses up and down. Don't overthink it.

I did just this yesterday, as I got caught out in the rain the other day, and I'm tired of beating up my handmade italian oxfords at work.

[Ben]

Johnston and Murphy Tyndall Wingtips. $150, get both the black and the tan. Rubber sole, upkeep is minimal. Dresses up and down. Don't overthink it.

I did just this yesterday, as I got caught out in the rain the other day, and I'm tired of beating up my handmade italian oxfords at work.

Rubber-soled wingtips? Someone notify Chase that his account has been hacked.

[chasea]

Rubber-soled wingtips? Someone notify Chase that his account has been hacked.

IT IS WINTER!!!!

And I'm usually over dressed. Stuck in an office for the next two months.
Killmekillmekillmekillmekillmekillmekillmekillme.. ...

[christian]

No rubber soled wingtips. Ever.

Park Avenues are a good suggestion if they're only going to serve as "dress shoes." McNeils or Strands would be other AE choices to consider. But let's face it, black suit with black shoes just makes one look like an undertaker or waiter. The problem is the black suit.

Here's what I would start with:
1) Navy blazer with brown horn buttons and a pair of 3-season weight mid-gray flannel wool trousers
2) Mid-gray suit (BB 1818 is half-canvas, but fine) - most times, I would recommend charcoal, but given the relaxed attire in your industry, I think you can get away with mid-gray, which then opens you up to walnut shoes.
3) Cordovan longwings (AE McNeils) and walnut AE Strands can work with both above

These outfits would serve you for 25 years with no other informal/business attire required.

[chasea]

Dude wanted shoes, not a new wardrobe. And he's in an industry where a few suits may actually give the wrong impression. We're talking about shoes that will be dressed up one or two times a year. The rest of the time they are for casual wear. This is not the kind of guy who is going to buy 4 or 5 pairs of shoes at $500 a pop and wear them only when function/weather/dress code is appropriate.

I've given advice on entire wardrobe reboots through PM here. This is not that.

Saying "no rubber soles ever" to someone in Annapolis is unfair. I've been there in February. The only thing worse than caring for wet leather soles is caring for them while your feet are blackened and your toes are falling off.
I'm standing by my suggestion. As a matter of fact, I'm wearing them here at this desk I'm stuck behind for the next two months.

[christian]

Saying "no rubber soles ever" to someone in Annapolis is unfair. I've been there in February. The only thing worse than caring for wet leather soles is caring for them while your feet are blackened and your toes are falling off.

Hyperbole, much? I work in NYC and live in the wintry burbs north of 287 and wear leather-soled shoes every workday without fail. It's Annapolis, not Aconcagua. And $250 re-soleable leather shoes are a good value. Get them re-soled every five years for $70 and they'll last 20+ years. (And five years assumes they're in steady rotation.)

[chasea]

Everyone wears rubber soled shoes in the winter. Or they should. Because they "lack class"- or whatever the popular thought may be- is a poor excuse. Then again, that is why I walked away from the double windsor knot.

Sincerely,

L. Chase Anderson
Butler For The Saudi Royal Family Who The Fuck Are You?

Seriously, though. XXXXXXX, if you're out there, can you please resend my original PM to you about starting a wardrobe? I deleted most of my PM and think this would be of great help to the OP.

Thanks.

[chasea]

Butler For The Saudi Royal Family Who The Fuck Are You?

Yo, Christian. You know the second part of that is a joke, right?

I'm on the front page of VS for being an asshole.

[sonny]

I'm on the front page of VS for being an asshole.

and we love you for it

..rubber atmo

[christian]

Then again, that is why I walked away from the double windsor knot.

I would have assumed you'd walked away because it invariably looks like a python who's dined on a muntjak, especially on men of smaller stature. And that you'd appreciate the rakish asymmetry of the FIH. (BTW, I have no idea what size you are, but I reckon you're not 6'4", 215, since we're on a men's eating disorder and pushbike forum.)

BTW, it isn't that rubber soled shoes lack class, it's that if you're looking for classic shoes in a sensible last which will keep for a long time, you end up with leather soles by default. I'm not suggesting that everyone needs a closet full of Alden shell cordovan, but rubber soled shoes are pretty much by definition disposable. Those JMs do look fine for rubber soled shoes, but $205 would get you a pair of AE McClain seconds from the Shoe Bank and I think that's a wiser investment. I have no issue with overshoes/galoshes, either though.

[christian]

Yo, Christian. You know the second part of that is a joke, right?

Yeah, um, don't worry, I'm not going to get all SW&D jacked up on you.

[chasea]

I would have assumed you'd walked away because it invariably looks like a python who's dined on a muntjak, especially on men of smaller stature. And that you'd appreciate the rakish asymmetry of the FIH.

Yes. This. Or the single/half windsor, whichever you prefer to call it.

(BTW, I have no idea what size you are, but I reckon you're not 6'4", 215, since we're on a men's eating disorder and pushbike forum.)

6'3'', buck-ninety (in the winter). Or, as e-Richie calls me, fat.