Donabe: My latest kitchen crush

[spopepro]

I was at my local pusher (er... knife dealer) recently and noticed that he started to carry some donabe, traditional Japanese clay pots, and also had the author of the new-ish donabe cookbook in the shop for a visit. I held off for the moment on the pots, but got the cookbook. If you enjoy learning about and cooking simple, traditional foods from all over the world, this cookbook is a must. It is wonderfully written, and makes sufficient explanations for technique and method so you begin to understand how things go together freeing you from having to always stick to the script. Takei-Moore-san also makes it clear that you do not need the traditional pots to do everything, and provides notes on how to make changes if you do not have a particular type of donabe, or have any at all.

But... this is vsalon and of course I was going to go back and get the gear.



I chose to get the largest of the rice donabe (the black one). The rice donabe has a secondary lid under the domed one to keep the right amount of moisture in the pot when cooking rice. It can also be used without the secondary lid to make stews and other things. The splurge is the brown one, the ibushi gin--a stovetop smoker. I live in a ~700sqft loft, no yard, no roofdeck, no kitchen vent. Grilling, bbq, smoking... I've had no means for any of it. In side the ibushi gin are 3 wire racks. I line it with a bit of foil, and then wood chips (small chips--the kind used in the handheld "gun" smokers and such), another piece of foil to catch drips, and then the racks and the food. Turn the gas on high, and right when the wood starts to smoke, put the lid on. There's a channel around the top that the lid sits in to be filled with water to make a seal and cool the small bits of smoke that escape. It works surprisingly well. The house smells a tiny bit smokey for a couple hours but it's far less obtrusive than when I pan fry something. Most things take about 30min start to finish. Hot smoke only, obviously, as there's no way to keep the food away from the heat source. But it's really really good.



You can get the pots from the book author here. There may be other sources for donabe, but these are what I got, and I believe the only US importer for Nagatani-en, a traditional family maker in Iga.

[caleb]

Oh my.

[11.4]

"Special high-end donabe. $620."

You. effin'. sh*t.

You'd give crack to a crack addict.

Wait.

You just did.

Damn you.

[Too Tall]

spopepro - fantastic intel and you really know this pitch is going to the right places. I do enjoy traditional and simple cooking. I'll start with the book.

[gt6267a]

for those interested ... this type of pottery is known as flameware. It has a lower thermal expansion than regular stoneware or porcelain. The good stuff is able to go from fridge to stovetop and back without a hitch.

[Too Tall]

@spopepro Thank you thank you thank you for the book reference. I've blazed thru reading part of all the chapters. The method speaks to me man and I'm pretty sure that I can use some of my pottery that I made years ago for this...if not it is a kick in the @ss to start throwing again!

A quick take away are the many lovely ways to make flavored rice.

One thing leads to another.

I'll report back.

[j44ke]

Two of the best meals we had in Japan were cooked on one of these.

And not all of the donabe are $620. Check MTC Kitchen Supply on 3rd and 45th in NYC next time you are here. Or go to their e-commerce site. Or Korin on Warren St. or e-commerce.

You do, however, need a gas burner. We haven't bought one because all we have is a ceramic electric. Bah!

[spopepro]

I made the sayko miso (kyoto style) nabe from the book Monday night. We had company, so no pictures unfortunately. Don't forget about the shime course! Fresh ramen noodles in the miso broth after the veggies were served was actually the highlight of the evening. Well, that and the completely local nama (unpasteurized) sake... but that's probably for another post for another time.

But I was thinking, while presentation would be a bit different, this recipe in particular would work perfectly in an enameled cast iron pot. All the ingredients are blanched/browned separately and simmer only briefly in the donabe.

[zetroc]

Really wish I had a gas stove right about now.

[Too Tall]

shime <<<< yup.

No kidding, I was thinking that most of my lovely cast iron enamelware will work just fine.