Somewhere between Paris and Venice

[rec head]

My wife has a conference in Pisa coming up so we are making a vacation out it. I will be leaving before her and starting my journey on Oct.5 in Paris where I will be staying with a friend for the weekend. I need to meet my wife on Oct 14 in Venice. If I stay in Paris for the weekend and leave on Monday that gives me most of a week to go ride my bike somewhere. I'll be on my own so I'd like to go somewhere that I can ride 2-6 hours during the day and then be able to explore and eat. I'm pretty simple and would rather stroll somewhere scenic stopping at bakeries than go to a museum.

Option 1 is to go to Bagnols-en-Foret in southern France where another friend lives. I was there last year and the riding is fantastic but there is nothing else going on where she lives. I don't know how to say "boonies" in French but that is where she is. Her and her family are great but they will mostly be working or at school.

Option 2 is to go anywhere kind of in between Paris and Venice. I have never been to Switzerland or Italy.



A few points:
Once in Europe I'd prefer to take the train. The airlines really hate my S&S bike and brake something each time I fly now.

I have been to Paris many times over the years to see friends. I don't feel like I'm missing out on anything by not staying longer. My buddy will have to work and his kids will be at school and staying at their mom's after the weekend. But he actually lives in Argenteuil now and if someone says that there is awesome riding right there then I'd stay for the week.

I'm not interested in going to southern Italy on this trip. We will be going to Rome next year for a couple weeks. (Having family in the foreign service makes for great traveling.) When my wife gets to Italy we will have a couple days in Venice, Florence and Pisa. I will have 2 days in Pisa while she is at the conference to ride.

The riding I'm looking for will be anything from smooth road to rowdy gravel/non-DH singletrack. Since it is all new to me I don't mind riding basically the same route everyday if it is magical.


We made a last minute decision to go on this trip and I need to make a decision fairly soon. All input is welcome. If nothing else typing this all out helped organize things in my mind.

Thanks

[Too Tall]

PM me, I'll share about 25 routes from S.France starting near Moustiers, Fr. which is also the location of Gorges du Verdon. There are abundant VBRO or AirBnb there and you'll hit the best riding weather AND the Fr. are home from vacation.

If you want a magical ride, I got one for you from the Town of Sisteron. The ride is only 51 miles with a 15 miles lead into the climb up Col Du Faye but maaaan once you finish that climb it is a to-die-for scenic hayride downhill for 25 miles!!!!

Also, if you so choose I've got an epic 180 miles or so of gravel riding that I have not personally explored.

FWIIW We were there on 35c tyres and that was not quite the right stuff for baby fist smooth rocks. I'd go back with 40s and be a real happy boy. You can do it on 32s but it's just not relaxing, dig?

[j44ke]

Boy I sure like the Lucca area. I'd be sorely tempted to get a rental in Bagni di Lucca and camp out there and wait for the conference to end in Pisa, if that's how the schedule works. You'd be right on a Giro stage route (Abetone) with plenty of other riding in all directions. I haven't explored the gravel just because I've never been there with a bike of my own, but the hills are filled with the Italian equivalent of fire roads. Small town cafes and nice restaurants plus weekly/daily markets in town and neighboring towns. Might be a bit chilly in the mountains (Apennines and Apuanes) but you can ride from there to Carrara on the beach. There is even the famous descent from Cippolini's "Bond" advert. Lots of climbing. Beautiful towns. And then there is Lucca itself which is a gem.

[robin3mj]

I have not been to the area you mentioned where your friend is but if you like spending time with them I'm sure it would more than fit the bill.

My first thought was take a train south towards Toulouse and pick an area. By hopping off the train in Brive, you'd be in the Dordogne region with a nice national park in the vicinity. You'd have quiet roads with lots of short punchy climbs but nothing like the Alps/Pyrenees. Rocamadour (old cliffside village) is stunning, as is the village of Autoire.

[bigbill]

Have you considered Slovenia? Koper is just across the border from Trieste, a very short distance from Venice. They have a wonderful train system and the capital, Lubljana is beautiful with tons of cycling opportunities.

[rec head]

Thanks for responding so quickly. In no particular order.

I bet Slovenia in great but I'd prefer something more on the way. Two medium train rides instead of a long and short. But you have me thinking about it.

If I go to southern France it will be straight to Bagnols-en-Foret from Paris. I know some routes and have been clued in on some others. Staying at my friend's place also will let me get my Strava local legend back from that bum Absalon. Not to mention its free and the company is excellent.

Researching the Lucca area now.

My travel bike tire is 40mm minimum. I think I have 42s on it now but depending on what I decide I can get even bigger in front. If I go to Bagnols I'll probably put that bigger one on. The 'gravel' I was riding out there last time was sharp stuff. Some of the areas were me and dudes on eMTBs. Super fun.

Any good riding around Geneva?

[vertical_doug]

I'd think Paris Gare De Lyon by TGV to Annecy. I think you will like to ride around the area plus you can rent a car and drive to Chamonix for a day or day trip train to Geneva. I think it will be a fun week.

From Annecy to Venice, I think I'd train to Geneva and fly to Venice myself. But you can train it via Milan.

So if I was planning, first few days in Annecy. Next day rent a car, hit Chamonix. finally train it to Geneva and spend a couple days there. Then fly to Venice.
Switzerland is still mind boggling expensive just not quite as bad as it was. France feels relatively cheap with dollar so strong,

[Too Tall]

Yes there is fantastic riding from Geneva. Google Route du Napoleon and follow your nose. No need to plan hotels etc. this is off season for the high country, they are eager to have you. I've ridden from the Airport south to (almost) Nice twice. Yah don't even need a map.

[Chik]

A bit difficult to recommend an option in-between since there are so many, but since Geneva / Annecy was mentioned, from there you can head south and hit some lumpy bits including Télégraphe, Galibier, Izoard, Bonette, etc. on the way to Nice / Monaco. Expect food to be a bit shit on the route.

Once you get to Pisa, you're also close enough to do some gravel, aka Strade Bianche. The various l'Eroica routes are signposted so it shouldn't cause too much headache.

[j44ke]

This is a road route from the little place we rented in Pieve di Brancoli in the hills above Lucca after friends complained they weren't getting enough climbing. I didn't do this one, but I rode up to Abetone and back. They went all the way around and were seriously cooked by they time they got back to the house. But no complaining!

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/22334311

I know the roads up to Pieve di Brancoli connect eventually to dirt roads and paths that go over the mountain and meet paved roads going down into the next valley. And that most of the areas have this sort of off-the-map collection of roads and paths nearer to the tops of the mountains. Some are actually ancient hiking through-ways, some of which date back to the Roman era and were used more recently by partisans against the Germans and Fascists during WWII. Not sure how many are restricted from bike access and are hiking-only though.

[sk_tle]

Have you considered backpacking your way from Paris to Venice ?

[rec head]

Jorn that route is probably awesome but I don't plan on 100 milers. I'll definitely explore the area on ridewgps though.

It is too far for me to ride from Paris to Venice in 5 days. I have thought about taking a train part way and then riding the rest. It is still an option but would certainly change how I need to pack.

I got a message from my friend in the south. She has been sick and her daughter has covid and it seems like it is really going around their circle. I think I'll avoid it.

For some reason I'm really leaning towards Geneva. I don't know why. I looked at airbnb and small apartments are as cheap as $100/ night which is the same as shitty motel in the states.

[vertical_doug]

Jorn that route is probably awesome but I don't plan on 100 milers. I'll definitely explore the area on ridewgps though.

It is too far for me to ride from Paris to Venice in 5 days. I have thought about taking a train part way and then riding the rest. It is still an option but would certainly change how I need to pack.

I got a message from my friend in the south. She has been sick and her daughter has covid and it seems like it is really going around their circle. I think I'll avoid it.

For some reason I'm really leaning towards Geneva. I don't know why. I looked at airbnb and small apartments are as cheap as $100/ night which is the same as shitty motel in the states.

Do Geneva and splurge. I prefer Beau Rivage which is on the lake. It will hurt a little but is a a great location.
I'd train Paris - Geneva then fly Geneva to Venice.

[Chik]

If you're going to hang around in the vicinity of Geneva, I'm not a particular fan of Geneva -- a bit too stale and boring in more ways than one. Rather, I would take another hour on the train to get to the other side of Lac Léman, Lausanne, stay at the Lausanne Palace, and explore the surrounding area in Vaud on your bike. Prettier, more relaxed, people are nicer.

Alternatively, you could stay a bit longer in the Paris region, opt to cycle in and around Reims, visit some Champagne producers, get buzzed, return to Paris, and hop on the Orient Express to Venice although I'm not sure if they would be happy to take your bike on board.

[Too Tall]

Rah rah for what Chik says. Lausanne feels like a fun place and hey the local bus will haul you to the mtns. and return you at night.

I'm biased, my niece lives there.

[Chik]

If you decide to fly into Geneva, you can get on the train to Lausanne right at the airport.

Speaking of which… If you do go to Switzerland, carry some CHF 1 coins. If you need to do a #2 at a public bog, you are likely to have to insert a CHF 1 to open the stall. Some stalls accept electronic payment now but don’t count on it. I once got to GVA and stopped at the loo before boarding the train to Lausanne (I used to be in Lausanne every other week for several months). Some poor soul obviously didn’t have any coins on him and took a massive — I mean I’ve never even imagined one intact piece can be so big — in one of the urinals. Don’t be that guy.

[rec head]

I got in contact with my old #1 riding buddy and she is in London right now. She might be able to come to the continent and ride bikes for a couple days. I'm waiting to hear back from her. She's ridden a lot of places so I'll meet her wherever she wants to go.

[Chik]

I got in contact with my old #1 riding buddy and she is in London right now. She might be able to come to the continent and ride bikes for a couple days. I'm waiting to hear back from her. She's ridden a lot of places so I'll meet her wherever she wants to go.

I hope she knows what to do in order to avoid her bike being taxed when entering the EU from the UK and vice versa.

[Scott G.]

I hope she knows what to do in order to avoid her bike being taxed when entering the EU from the UK and vice versa.

If you have a laissez-passer signed by one the Tudor or Stuart kings, you are not taxed.
Documents from the so called royals of the House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha are no longer recognized since B*****.

[Chik]

If you have a laissez-passer signed by one the Tudor or Stuart kings, you are not taxed.
Documents from the so called royals of the House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha are no longer recognized since B*****.

That’s the problem with plebs having a say. I actually live in another S-C&G realm although this country was founded as a constitutional monarchy.