Tube Replacement?

[Thomas Norton]

So I am wanting to try doing a TT replacement on a lugged frame but have question. What is the procedure for prepping the ID of the lug after removing the old tube?
Thanks!

[e-RICHIE]

It depends on the severity of what’s left after you remove the parts. If you’re adept, a simple scratching out of the remaining filler (trace) material so that the tube slides in is all you need. There’s been a time or three when I’d completely bore through the seat tube so that the miter is flush, or even left a bit long, to make the reassembly easier. I’ve never done that to the head tube though.

In all of these repairs, small files are your friend. Patience is your best friend. Every stroke needs to be deliberate and well thought out.

[Thomas Norton]

Richard, thanks for your reply. Though I have only built 2 lugg frames and forks it was strongly suggested to get everything as"clean" as possible. My thought is the ID of the lugs will still have silver solder "residue ". Is that a concern?

[e-RICHIE]

Richard, thanks for your reply. Though I have only built 2 lugg frames and forks it was strongly suggested to get everything as"clean" as possible. My thought is the ID of the lugs will still have silver solder "residue ". Is that a concern?

If the new tube fits in the old hole, that’s fine enough for you in this example. The residual filler material will (should) be so minimal as to perhaps be a small witness to when it’s time to add more during the actual brazing process. The amount left won’t hinder or help much more than giving you a window in which to know you’re at temperature.

[Thomas Norton]

Thanks Richard! Looking forward to giving this a go!

[Peter Polack]

...I’ve never done that to the head tube though.

While I can't offer any advice here, I can tell you my old Trek 660 frame was fabricated with a faux headtube: the head tube and both lugs were a one piece casting. The holes in the top tube and down tube ends of the faux head head tube were full size and you could see the ends of the respective tubes, so obviously you could bore straight into the head tube if necessary, for a repair. My frame lasted 28 years if that's any indication.

Clearly, frame repairs need some unconventional thinking and problem solving skills.

[Curt Goodrich]

In addition to what Richard said, with the tube in the vertical orientation I like to flow the excess filler material out of the joint and onto the tube before pulling it out of the joint. This reduces the amount of filler you will need to clean out of the joint by hand.

[Thomas Norton]

Curt, thanks for that tip!