Plate style dropouts question

[timto]

So what's the process to attach the stays to the drop outs in this scenario?

Close up the stay end then notch to fit the drop out?
Braze to dropout, then close the stay with a plate?

I'm interested in trying something similar albeit in steel with brass (not tig) My only experience so far is with internal socket (HJ) and Breezer style.

Any tips from the trenches? I notice Seven does this and the Ti IF's, Firefly do something similar...





Thanks in advance for any input.

[Boedie]

Hi, the example you have pictured is a TIG welded dropout, which is a little different than what I think you mean. I could be misinterperting your question. If you want to braze a dropout onto a chainstay, notch your chainstay the width of the dropout making sure to get the right orientation with your chainstay angle and getting the dropout vertical. Notch the tab on your dropout a hair (5-7mm), apply(file) your favorite treatment to the chainstay end, then clean (can't stress this enough) and flux and braze into place. I like to do both dropouts at the same time with either your fixture or a dummy axle keeping the dropouts in sink. You want to first tack the tangs/points into place, then simply fill up the chainstay with brass or silver, whichever you are using. If you focus most of the heat on the dropout itself, the brass will just slide right on down. Try and get as much filler as you can into the chainstay-ie, a rod of brass. There are a million pictures of different builders performing this, so a trip to Flickr will probably answer alot of questions for you. Practice brazing on a 1/4" plate, instead of a dropout into the chainstay. This will help you understand heat control and how to move the filler. Good luck.

[timto]

Gotcha and thanks for the reply -totally what I'd do for a STD chain stay w/ say a 12.5 mm tip but more specific to the above images I wanted to use straight non tapered 7/8 and not get too porky filling that size cavity w/ brass! I realize my first post wasn't detailed enough!

I'm interested in the above technique described for tig and it's feasibility in a brass brazing scenario - maybe some hybrid of the styles? Perhaps not feasible at all?

Hi, the example you have pictured is a TIG welded dropout, which is a little different than what I think you mean. I could be misinterperting your question. If you want to braze a dropout onto a chainstay, notch your chainstay the width of the dropout making sure to get the right orientation with your chainstay angle and getting the dropout vertical. Notch the tab on your dropout a hair (5-7mm), apply(file) your favorite treatment to the chainstay end, then clean (can't stress this enough) and flux and braze into place. I like to do both dropouts at the same time with either your fixture or a dummy axle keeping the dropouts in sink. You want to first tack the tangs/points into place, then simply fill up the chainstay with brass or silver, whichever you are using. If you focus most of the heat on the dropout itself, the brass will just slide right on down. Try and get as much filler as you can into the chainstay-ie, a rod of brass. There are a million pictures of different builders performing this, so a trip to Flickr will probably answer alot of questions for you. Practice brazing on a 1/4" plate, instead of a dropout into the chainstay. This will help you understand heat control and how to move the filler. Good luck.

[Whipsmart]

Turn a plug, cope the plug end to the desired radius, sweat to plate and sweat to tube.

[Curt Goodrich]

IMG_0285.jpgWhy not just slot the stay and stick the drop out in the stay with brass? Something like this-

[Whipsmart]

If I understand correctly, y'all are missing the point of the posters question - what do you do when needing to attach large diameter stays to dropout - i.e. when the tube is larger than the dropout tab. Is that correct?

[EricKeller]

I agree, the answers above have missed the point. The forks I've seen built this way have the dropout welded along the outside of the tube, and then a plate is applied and welded along the dropout and the tube. That's it, no welding down inside the tube.

[Clockwork]

Steve Potts method: stevepottsbicycles: May 2010

[timto]

Awesome thanks guys the last two replies nailed it for me sorry I wasn't clearer with my request

Cheers and happy holidays!

[Clockwork]

Here's my Steve Potts style dropout attachment.







More pics: Clif's MTB - a set on Flickr

-Joel

[timto]

YOU are a craftsman and a gentleman of the highest order of awesome.

Here's my Steve Potts style dropout attachment.







More pics: Clif's MTB - a set on Flickr

-Joel

[Clockwork]

YOU are a craftsman and a gentleman of the highest order of awesome.

Thanks. I just told my wife this but was unable to finish due to her hysteric laughing.

[swhittingham]

I'm actually very curious what order firefly and IF are doing this operation for Tig. I imagine it is actually plate to stay then finished stay to dropout? Anyone know?

Cheers,
Sam

[Guillaume]

I'm actually very curious what order firefly and IF are doing this operation for Tig. I imagine it is actually plate to stay then finished stay to dropout? Anyone know?

Cheers,
Sam

Same question here, and are they fully welded inside the tube before capping or just tacked?

[bellman]

I'm actually very curious what order firefly and IF are doing this operation for Tig. I imagine it is actually plate to stay then finished stay to dropout? Anyone know?

Cheers,
Sam

This was in friday night lights two weeks ago;

Also, Joel, that looks really nice man.

[suhacycles]

Here's my Steve Potts style dropout attachment.



More pics: Clif's MTB - a set on Flickr

-Joel

Hi Joel,

Purty stuff... I was wondering, do you try to round out the flat section of the dropout to match the curvature of the inner wall of the chainstay? I'm also curious as to how the seatstays attach given that the seatstay angle might not match the dropout angle...

-Hansen

[Clockwork]

The inside is profiled to the CS. I got lucky with the dropout angle matching the SS angle, but it doesn't need to be the same.

-Joel