Suits - where buy?

[Drew]

So, I'm (finally) to the point in my life where I would like to have a couple of Real Nice Suits. I don't wear them often, but whenever I need a suit, it's a Mad Panic to get something for a nice dinner, business gathering, etc. Normally my everyday work wear is the same Cintas uniform as the rest of our company, so I'm not worried about everyday.

I bought one at JosABank a couple months ago, and wound up with only disappointment and regret. I have concluded that suits, as with most things, you get what you pay for.

Looking now at Sid Mashburn and Tom James. Tom James has a location near me, and Sid Mashburn is coming on their "road tour" to a place near me so I can get fit up.

Any other suggestions? I don't mind spending in the $1500-ish range for pants/jacket. But don't want to go much more than this. Probably also get a half dozen shirts or so to go with it.

Current thought is to maybe get three - one from Mashburn, one from TJ, and one from a local spot near me. See which is best and go from there. But I'm a buffoon when it comes to nice clothes - I just don't wear them often enough to really know what's going on.

[rwsaunders]

Nordstrom is not a bad resource, where you will most likely be fitted by someone who knows what they’re doing and you can spend what you want.

[NYCfixie]

Looking now at Sid Mashburn...I don't mind spending in the $1500-ish range for pants/jacket. But don't want to go much more than this. Probably also get a half dozen shirts or so to go with it.

Current thought is to maybe get three - one from Mashburn, one from TJ, and one from a local spot near me. See which is best and go from there. But I'm a buffoon when it comes to nice clothes - I just don't wear them often enough to really know what's going on.

Fit is the most important aspect. Sid Mashburn is a good choice. Spending more than a few hundred for an "off the rack" suit from the big department stores makes no sense. Spend the money on a good "made to measure" suit which can be had for about $1500 (most Bespoke starts at $5,000). Also look at the Divij tour schedule.

Think about 2 good suits rather than a few lesser ones: One dark navy and one charcoal will cover most people for 99% of needs unless you wear one to work every day. Same with shirts, get a few nice ones rather than too many mediocre ones: white x2, light blue x2, stripe, and something fun. Proper Cloth is a good choice, or Mashburn, or Divij. You can get shirts "made to measure" as well. Same for ties (if you plan to wear one), get a few classics/basics that can be matched with the shirts and suits.

And, do not forget good shoes: one black pair and one brown pair should cover 99% of needs. Allen Edmonds is a good basic to start with (only purchase them when on-sale which happens several times a year). Alden is another good option. Carmina is a personal favorite.

Here are a few YouTube videos to watch (look through their channels for other related content):

[caleb]

I'd go to Ben Silver in Charleston if it's not too far from you.

I think DC still has a brick and mortar J. Press, if that's closer to you.

[72gmc]

Nordstrom is not a bad resource, where you will most likely be fitted by someone who knows what they’re doing and you can spend what you want.

I have 1 good suit and it’s from Nordstrom. If I needed more suits I’d go back.

[bigbill]

Both my son and I buy suits at Men's Wearhouse. I have a 8-10" drop so their model of racks of jackets matched up with racks of pants works for my build. As long as I want charcoal gray or navy blue, I'm good to go.

[Ras72]

Drew,
Once you figure out your preferred fit and finish - as pointed out above, check out https://www.charlestyrwhitt.com/intl/mens-suits/
I have several pieces from them and they fall in line with my budget/quality demands. Especially like their 'customization' in sizing. I much prefer to order clothing in sizes denoted in number, in lieu of letters.

[rwsaunders]

I'd go to Ben Silver in Charleston if it's not too far from you.

I think DC still has a brick and mortar J. Press, if that's closer to you.

Glad to hear they’re still around as I have some old regimental ties (cut from the heart) and cloisonné cuff links that I purchased from their Charleston shop back in the 90’s that still get playing time…never out of style.

[vertical_doug]

Glad to hear they’re still around as I have some old regimental ties (cut from the heart) and cloisonné cuff links that I purchased from their Charleston shop back in the 90’s that still get playing time…never out of style.

how can these go out of style if these never are in style?

[fastupslowdown]

Last go around was Brooks Brothers. I have an average build so not looking for cutting edge fashion which would not look good on me. My backup would be Nordstroms -Mike G

[Bobonli]

Have you tried the phone book or "Suits Near Me" on Google? I wonder if there's a small mens shop that you just haven't noticed that might be competitive with the bigger brands.

I'm usually a Brooks Bros or Nordstrom shopper. A few years ago I realized that the tailoring at those places was a little "off." I posted here and a very helpful soul name Bjorn suggested a tiny mens shop that I drove past often but never visited. He'd been getting his suits there for years, IIRC. So I went there and found a place with a wide selection of nice suits at various price ranges. Brands I'd never heard of but nice looking and with a nice "hand." Prices a little less than Brooks/Nordstrom but more importantly the tailoring was top quality.

Find where the courthouse is, then look for the mens shop where the attorneys buy their suits!

[Drew]

Nordstrom is not a bad resource, where you will most likely be fitted by someone who knows what they’re doing and you can spend what you want.

Mr Bob - believe it or not... the only one 'round these here parts, is in a giant mall in Charlotte. I don't mind the drive but last time I was in that mall, it's still wall to wall people... which is kind of a trigger for me. Appreciate the input - maybe I can make some time to go down there on a Monday morning or something like that.

Fit is the most important aspect. Sid Mashburn is a good choice. Spending more than a few hundred for an "off the rack" suit from the big department stores makes no sense. Spend the money on a good "made to measure" suit which can be had for about $1500 (most Bespoke starts at $5,000). Also look at the Divij tour schedule.

Think about 2 good suits rather than a few lesser ones: One dark navy and one charcoal will cover most people for 99% of needs unless you wear one to work every day. Same with shirts, get a few nice ones rather than too many mediocre ones: white x2, light blue x2, stripe, and something fun. Proper Cloth is a good choice, or Mashburn, or Divij. You can get shirts "made to measure" as well. Same for ties (if you plan to wear one), get a few classics/basics that can be matched with the shirts and suits.

And, do not forget good shoes: one black pair and one brown pair should cover 99% of needs. Allen Edmonds is a good basic to start with (only purchase them when on-sale which happens several times a year). Alden is another good option. Carmina is a personal favorite.

Lots to unpack here... and I hear you on the shoes. Appreciate you putting all of this together. Shoes seems like a bit of a black hole...

I'd go to Ben Silver in Charleston if it's not too far from you.

I think DC still has a brick and mortar J. Press, if that's closer to you.

Charleston closer but still about five hours. Next time I'm down there I will have a look. Thanks!

Drew,
Once you figure out your preferred fit and finish - as pointed out above, check out https://www.charlestyrwhitt.com/intl/mens-suits/
I have several pieces from them and they fall in line with my budget/quality demands. Especially like their 'customization' in sizing. I much prefer to order clothing in sizes denoted in number, in lieu of letters.

Agree on numbers rather than letters. 100%. I think I am going to go see someone who knows what they're doing until I get comfortable... then maybe I can try ordering.

My biggest issue is that when I find something big enough in the neck/shoulders, it's like a parachute around my waist/belly, and the arm holes are so big that I can barely lift my arms without tugging the whole front around. I've been told by a few people that the answer is made-to-measure and it will be a world of difference, and worth every penny. Here's hoping.

[Drew]

how can these go out of style if these never are in style?

. Shots fired!!!!

Have you tried the phone book or "Suits Near Me" on Google? I wonder if there's a small mens shop that you just haven't noticed that might be competitive with the bigger brands.

Find where the courthouse is, then look for the mens shop where the attorneys buy their suits!

Yep, that's the third option I mentioned up top... "one from a local spot near me." I found just a place like you mentioned, and I am planning to go there in the next couple of weeks. Appreciate the input.

[NYCfixie]

My biggest issue is that when I find something big enough in the neck/shoulders, it's like a parachute around my waist/belly, and the arm holes are so big that I can barely lift my arms without tugging the whole front around. I've been told by a few people that the answer is made-to-measure and it will be a world of difference, and worth every penny. Here's hoping.

In the late 90s they made "athletic cut" cut suits (because it was a trend and luckily it worked for me) which offered an 8" or 10" drop (i.e. 44 coat, 36 pants, 44 coat and 34 pants) and the coat was cut fuller in the shoulders/neck/chest area and slimmer in the waist/belly. They do not make these anymore and why I have personally moved to "made to measure". Off the rack suits today are cut for heroin-chic style (and trend) so they often look 1 size to small even for the very slim person who is wearing it. I think it looks ridiculous.

Arm holes are always cut big in off the rack suits so they can fit a wider range of people, but as you mentioned the downside is the coat pulls when you lift your arms. MTM (and Bespoke) suits have the arm holes cut higher and closer-in so that it moves with you and the coat does not pull.

[vertical_doug]

In the late 90s they made "athletic cut" cut suits (because it was a trend and luckily it worked for me) which offered an 8" or 10" drop (i.e. 44 coat, 36 pants, 44 coat and 34 pants) and the coat was cut fuller in the shoulders/neck/chest area and slimmer in the waist/belly. They do not make these anymore and why I have personally moved to "made to measure". Off the rack suits today are cut for heroin-chic style (and trend) so they often look 1 size to small even for the very slim person who is wearing it. I think it looks ridiculous.

Arm holes are always cut big in off the rack suits so they can fit a wider range of people, but as you mentioned the downside is the coat pulls when you lift your arms. MTM (and Bespoke) suits have the arm holes cut higher and closer-in so that it moves with you and the coat does not pull.

Just tell everyone your suits are tailored in Naples. If you ever seen the Neapolitan fit, the pants are too short, and the suit looks too small and they charge big big bucks for it.

[Chik]

Just tell everyone your suits are tailored in Naples. If you ever seen the Neapolitan fit, the pants are too short, and the suit looks too small and they charge big big bucks for it.

You're talking about stuff sold by some RTW brands that are based in Naples, not Neapolitan fit. Not to be confused or conflated.

[Chik]

I'm afraid there's no easy answer to this. You have a body type that's unique to you, so you'll have to go through one kind of exploratory process or another.

The arm hole (scye) depth is usually one of the significant problems with off the peg jackets. Be careful with made to measure because the scye will not necessarily be shallow. Just like ready to wear, there is MTM, and there is MTM. The seller will usually have some try-on samples so you can judge if it is shallow enough for your liking and also assess other aspects of fit.

One thing to understand about MTM is that they are made from pre-made blocks (patterns) that are then adjusted to fit you better. Those blocks will have been cut to accommodate a reasonably broad range of body types, just like RTW. The range and types of adjustments will be limited by definition, given that they are based on their standard block (and those blocks are usually proprietary to the maker or even the seller, but critically, they are pre-made, not made specifically for you). Something like the scye cannot be adjusted without changing the block, which they won't do (even if a slick sales person may tell you that they can) simply for reasons of economics. Having your personal block being cut is bespoke, which is one of several reasons why it costs significantly more than MTM.

In the US, terminology can be very misleading since "custom" is used in a very loosey goosey way and can encompass both MTM and bespoke. However, the price will give away the true nature of the offer.

The same notes apply to shirts. If you don't plan to wear a tie, then a satisfactory fit is likely to be easier to achieve. If you wear a tie, depending on your body type, it can be a little tricky with a pre-made block.

If someone tells you that a split yoke is a sign of a higher quality shirt, don't fall for that BS: it makes no difference when the shirt is cut from a standard block instead of your personal pattern and only if you have a shape that is more difficult to fit, like uneven shoulders.

That said, I am not saying that you won't be happy with MTM, just that you need to proceed with your eyes open.

[Chik]

Here's Gary Cooper wearing jackets with very shallow scye. The shoulder is staying in position, the collar remains hugging his neck and the front right quarter has hardly moved.

Unlikely to be achievable with MTM so I think it's better not to get your hopes up too high with respect to MTM.

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[rwsaunders]

Had to grab a few cravats for a 3-day industry event that I’m headed to in DC, where suit and ties are expected (rare requirement for sure these days). My limited Ben Silver portfolio for Doug to enjoy, complete with 1899 Indian head penny cuff links with cloisonné treatment. Chik, now that I see your posts, I recall that you might be a fabric expert. If so, pay attention to him Drew.

PS a division of LSU has been a longstanding client of ours, so the 2nd tie from the left is always called up for my visits to Baton Rouge.

[echappist]

Here's Gary Cooper wearing jackets with very shallow scye. The shoulder is staying in position, the collar remains hugging his neck and the front right quarter has hardly moved.

Unlikely to be achievable with MTM so I think it's better not to get your hopes up too high with respect to MTM.
54f0e90fe3ca3fc5469854a9d89a8b01.jpeg

What do you know, a 3-roll-2 darted suit jacket.

Don't see those around too often these days.